Schiaparelli Fall Winter 2025, presented in Paris, reflects on the complexities of modern femininity. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry crafts a wardrobe that embraces contradiction, balancing structure and fluidity, power and delicacy, masculine influences and feminine energy.
The collection, titled “Lone Star,” explores the idea that women dress for themselves and for other women, rather than for the male gaze. Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy, built on artistic collaborations and bold design, remains central, but this season moves toward a wardrobe that empowers through duality.
Elements of classic ranch style serve as a foundation, with Roseberry drawing inspiration from his Texas upbringing. The collection reinvents duster coats, bow-legged jeans, cowboy boots, and oversized belt buckles, transforming them into luxurious, modern pieces.
Traditional cowboy boot leatherwork appears on belts, bags, and footwear, softened with feminine lines. A clutch shaped like beaten copper turns out to be specially treated leather, playing with perception. What seems rigid moves with unexpected fluidity, and what appears delicate holds a hidden strength.
Roseberry builds tension between structure and softness throughout the collection. A column skirt that looks like heavy jacquard turns out to be lightweight cut-thread fabric in pure ivory. A stretch flocked bodysuit appears restrictive but moves effortlessly, echoing the freedom of a leotard.
The play on proportions and trompe l’oeil effects adds an element of surprise. A feather motif, enlarged and bold, appears on double satin and neoprene velvet. A day bag with an exaggerated slouch-side handle becomes an oversized statement piece, designed to carry more than just essentials. Meanwhile, the Soufflé bag, covered in hundreds of gold studs, creates a striking interplay of texture and reflection.
Schiaparelli’s signature gold jewelry evolves with a lighter touch this season. Familiar motifs, eyes, noses, keyholes, take new forms in textured-gold metal chandelier earrings and sculptural necklaces. These pieces feel personal, designed to be worn as extensions of the self rather than just accessories.
Roseberry acknowledges the fatigue of social media culture and the desire to reconnect with what is real. In an era where mass production dominates, he focuses on creating pieces that feel unique and irreplaceable.
“The women in my life are lone stars,” Roseberry says. “There’s no one else like them, and there could never be.” This philosophy shapes the collection, each garment feels like a celebration of individuality, made to be cherished rather than consumed.
