David Koma turns to the theatrical world of competitive figure skating for his Spring Summer 2027 collection, drawing inspiration from the elaborate costumes and demanding physical discipline that defined the sport during the 1990s. The designer takes particular interest in Tonya Harding, whose athletic determination and competitive intensity provide a starting point for his exploration of femininity, movement, and performance.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
The collection examines the precision behind figure skating, where every movement requires control and technical skill. Koma carries this idea into the construction of his garments, using carefully arranged decorative elements and geometric shapes to establish a sense of structure. The influence of skating costumes appears throughout the collection, particularly in the treatment of surfaces and the relationship between fitted silhouettes and expressive details.
Crystal spirals form one of the central design elements. Their shapes reference the circular figures that skaters once traced across the ice, introducing a direct connection between athletic movement and decorative construction. Koma incorporates these spirals through embroidery, oversized jewelry, and sculptural cut-outs, placing mother-of-pearl at their centers.
Satin plays an important role in developing the collection’s sculptural qualities. Koma gathers the fabric around circular openings, allowing the material to create dimensional shapes across the garments. Transparent black mesh provides another approach to revealing the body, forming geometric windows that interrupt the surfaces of dresses and other pieces.
Movement also informs Koma’s use of feathers and fringe. His signature feather plumes extend from tops and skirts, introducing volume and texture. Rows of fringe attach to rigid boning, creating silhouettes that respond to movement while maintaining their underlying construction. The contrast between structured foundations and mobile decorative elements recalls the controlled physicality of competitive skating.
Koma introduces references to athletic warm-up clothing through satin bomber jackets and voluminous shorts. These pieces bring elements of the skaters’ training wardrobe into the collection, extending the inspiration beyond competition costumes. Protective jackets appear over dresses, adding another sportswear reference to the designer’s interpretation of figure skating attire.
A metallic mint knit gown introduces a particularly sensual expression of the collection’s direction. Its reflective surface connects with the broader emphasis on shine and decorative finishes, while the knit construction contributes a different texture to the lineup.
Color strengthens the connection to the theatrical appearance of the skating rink. Candyfloss pink and rose introduce delicate tones, while soft mint and bright ivory establish a lighter palette. Liquid silver and black provide additional depth, with extensive crystal embellishment contributing reflective details throughout the collection.
David Koma interprets the visual codes of 1990s competitive figure skating through a wardrobe that emphasizes precision, sensuality, and movement. Tonya Harding’s athletic determination informs the collection’s direction, while decorative spirals, feather plumes, structured fringe, and glossy satin translate the drama of skating costumes into the designer’s recognizable fashion vocabulary.
