What an artistic circus celebration! For the presentation of her Fall Winter 2024 line, Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder opened her most glamorous bag of tricks. After a fashion show break of four years, it felt like the right moment to lift the show of her couture label to a new level. For the mood of this impressive fashion show the designer deals with the social changes and restrictions of the past years. However it is important for her to encourage her audience to stay optimistic and therefore she paints the future in the most striking colours. Circus artists that welcomed the guests and figure skaters that were gracefully ice-skating contributed to the blithe, joyful character of this presentation. Then, the visitors were welcomed with delicious, dulcet popcorn and cake-pops. The very unique decoration ideas felt like a pure jollification and a colourful celebration of life and fashion in all its facets. The whole show was full of emotions and memories. Worth of mentioning is also the fact the designer sent her guests on a trip down memory lane with choosing songs from stars from the past. When the “Spice Girls” could be heard, the whole room was singing.
As location for her big celebration, she chose Haus Zenner in Berlin-Treptow. This venue with a breath-taking view over the river Spree, once called “Sanssouci of the East”, looks back to a history of over 200 years. Back in the years this impressive villa hosted glamorous parties in the 1800s. It was built in 1822, later on destroyed and then rebuilt in 1955. Recently it has been renovated and it is again available for concerts, shows and club nights. In winter (from Novemer 15th to March1st), the Zenner Biergarten transforms into the annual Zenner Wintergarten. During the colder season you can train your ice skating skills or enjoy some hot drinks there. This glamorous venue certainly matched the mood of this collection very well.
With her creations of this set, Marina Hoermanseder who previously also accoutered Lady Gaga and Rihanna stays true to her significant style: her designs stay entertaining, they evoce emotions, create special moments and always stay incredibly individual. When you clearly observe the styles of this line, you will recognize her theme ‘more is more’ clearly shines through. Being significant for her designs are extraordinary forms, lively colours and a very unusual pairing of fabrics and textures. Therefore a very refreshing overall image is created.
When you observe the runway looks of this line, you will realize Marina Hoermanseder prefers to creatively blur the lines between fiction and reality. Some outfits are provided with colourful teddy bears which appear in the brightest nuances. Then, huge hearts are utilized as well. Some looks sparkle in the most glamorous hues. The surrealistic, heart-shaped vase plays a central role in this compelling collection. The precisely hand-crafted, huge dress impresses the viewer because of its extraordinary form and its shining surface. It is the first time the designer presents sculptural and hand-crafted menswear. Sometimes masculine elements are creatively blurred with feminine ones. Plush, tulle and glitter are creatively melting with fake-fur, teddy bears and printed fabrics. One dress which is made of tiny lego stones is a true highlight of this range. Everything you can imagine becomes real. What must not be missing in this line anew are, you might guess it right, buckles. Being one of the signature details of her label for a very long time, they appear in various looks, colours and variations.
The colour cocktail of this line is a very eye-popping, bold, vivid one. It is definitely a big joy to observe all the tones this set has to offer. Some nuances that pop out are candy apple red, eclectic yellow, neon pink, light green, azure blue, emerald and bright purple. Often these eye-catching looks are also provided with sparkling details and that is why the attention in this circus gets even bigger. Classy nuances exist as well, for instance midnight black and creme. However this collection certainly focuses on bold tones.
It is fun and inspiring to observe the detail-awareness of this line. For next season, Marina Hoermanseder applies the most unusual details: for example a hat that is provided with banknote print is provided with sparkling rhinestone fringes. Then, over-sized shoulder pads remind us of the ’80s. Heart-details and cut outs are another favourite of this line. Flames are another topic that is repeatedly used and quite present, both as cut outs and on the designs.
In her Fall/Winter 2024 line, Marina Hoermanseder converges the most diverse materials, colours and moods. As a result, an incredibly creative and highly unique collection full of joie de vivre is introduced. The very special detail-awareness of this range certainly stays in mind.
Review by Sussan Zeck for DSCENE Magazine
Images: © Franziska Krug for Marina Hoermanseder
