The Porterville FW24 Women’s collection presented on February 29, 2024, at Owenscorp in Paris, carries a deeply personal narrative intertwined with the broader societal context. Rick Owens, the designer, creates an intimate atmosphere by showcasing the collection in his home and working compound, a space with sentimental significance marking 25 years since the brand’s inception. The theme of ‘Porterville‘ harks back to Owens’ upbringing in an environment rife with judgment and intolerance, reflecting the prevailing harsh realities of the present day.
Owens draws from his childhood experiences, particularly his relationship with his father, to inform the collection’s ethos. The juxtaposition of strict upbringing—void of modern entertainment like television—against exposure to opera and science fiction literature serves as a poignant backdrop. This blend of high culture and escapism resonates throughout the collection, manifesting in garments that evoke both nobility and otherworldly appeal.
Materiality plays a crucial role in Owens’ designs, with a focus on sustainability and artisanal craftsmanship evident in the recycled cashmere, felting techniques, and vegetable-tanned leathers utilized. Collaborations with niche artisans such as Matisse Di Maggio, known for their work in the Parisian BDSM community, add layers of subculture and authenticity to the collection. The juxtaposition of luxurious fabrics with unconventional materials like recycled bicycle tires underscores Owens’ commitment to pushing boundaries.
Beyond fashion, the inclusion of collaborators like photographer Kristina Nagel and individuals from Fecal Matter highlights Owens’ dedication to diversity and challenging societal norms. Through self-portraits and runway appearances, these collaborators embody the collection’s ethos of embracing individuality and confronting societal constraints. The synthesized rendition of Ravel‘s ‘Pavane for a Dead Princess‘ as the show’s soundtrack serves as a haunting yet elegantly nostalgic setting, encapsulating Owens’ vision of a world transcending the constraints of his upbringing in Porterville.
See all the runway looks from the collection in the Gallery below:
