Sabato de Sarno is marking a special milestone as Gucci‘s Creative Director by holding his first Cruise show in London. Though based in Milan, Gucci’s roots trace back to London, where its founder, Guccio Gucci, worked at the Savoy Hotel. His passion for luxury luggage was ignited during his time as a baggage porter, a nod to London’s cultural diversity that De Sarno honors with this destination runway show.
Gucci transformed the renowned Tate Modern into a lush, alfresco setting for the show, welcoming celebrity guests like Dua Lipa, Salma Hayek, and Paul Mescal. The Turbine Hall was adorned with reflective stools and grass patches, creating an ethereal atmosphere enhanced by sentimental violins.
Allegedly, De Sarno is under significant pressure because Kering, Gucci’s parent company, announced an alarming 11% revenue decrease for 2024 and warned of a potential 45% drop in recurring operating income for the first half of the year. Gucci itself saw a sharp 21% decline in the first quarter, especially in the Asia-Pacific region. This downturn isn’t attributable to De Sarno, as his debut collection only reached stores in February. Nevertheless, much hinges on his vision for the brand, which has shifted towards minimalism and refinement, a stark contrast to his predecessor’s ornate designs.
The collection featured gauzy pussybow blouses under boxy brown jackets paired with short shorts, formfitting mini dresses with oversized shoulder bags, big overshirts with sheer floral pencil skirts, and lacy bralettes under bibbed tops. Gucci moved away from dramatic platforms, choosing flats and loafers instead. Models carried leather satchels and large mesh totes, or opted for a single oversized accessory. Standout pieces included ombré checked designs with beaded fringe and surprising color combinations, reflecting the romanticism De Sarno aimed to convey.
The Cruise 2025 collection embraced a tomboy chic aesthetic, blending masculine and feminine styles in delicate pastels and deep primary tones. British uniform elements met Italian refinement, with miniature hot pants, romantic pearls, and slender frames. Relaxed silhouettes featured oversized button-downs and patchwork denim revealing lace bralettes underneath. Dainty fabrics were prominent, seen in sheer skirts and dresses adorned with circular embellishments. The show also revived the 1970s Blondie bag in smooth leather and monogram finishes, featuring Gucci’s signature Horsebit hardware. De Sarno delivered his strongest collection yet, blending heritage, elegance, and modern urbanity while envisioning the future of Gucci women.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
