Charles de Vilmorin’s Fall 2024 haute couture collection unfolded like a gripping Gothic fairy tale. Inspired by Agatha Christie’s murder mysteries, de Vilmorin brought a cinematic flair to the runway with characters straight out of a dark storybook. Witches, wicked stepsisters, a charming prince, and a Little Red Riding Hood, complete with a wolf costume, took center stage in this imaginative showcase. “I designed this collection as if it were a film,” de Vilmorin shared, creating a mysterious atmosphere.
This season, de Vilmorin experimented with new techniques, introducing metalwork that translated his intricate drawings into 3D curly wire frame structures. He also delved into millinery, crafting oversized hats adorned with horsehair fringe. Departing from his usual printed and hand-painted fabrics, he transformed his swirling sketches into vibrant jacquards, creating dramatic, bulbous silhouettes that defied practicality.
The runway was alive with theatrical performances. Model Noémie Lenoir prowled in a shredded mohair sheath, while another model, draped in a voluminous white tent dress, dramatically collapsed before the photographers. The grand finale saw prima ballerina Marie-Agnès Gillot, wrapped in glossy red fabric, performing an interpretive dance to Françoise Hardy’s “Mon Amie la Rose,” a tribute to the late French singer.
De Vilmorin, who has a background in ballet, infused the collection with a deep sense of performance and French cultural homage. Reflecting on his creative journey, he shared how he had emerged from a period of self-doubt following his stint as creative director at Rochas. “I went through a period of doubt, but now I just want to have fun,” he said, embodying the playful energy that defined the collection.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
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