Designer Rick Owens presented his Spring Summer 2025 Collection at the iconic Palais de Tokyo in Paris, capturing the essence of Hollywood’s complex narrative. This collection marks a departure from last season’s “Porterville,” shifting from the escape from a judgmental town to an embrace of Hollywood’s boulevard of vice – a place where Owens found camaraderie among society’s misfits, vividly described by Lou Reed’s “Walk on the Wild Side.”
The collection blends the audacious spirit of pre-code Hollywood with contemporary avant-garde fashion. Drawing inspiration from the flamboyant and eclectic world of 1970s Hollywood, Owens incorporates elements of Art Deco, sin, and morality into his designs. The collection features a juxtaposition of thrashing gym shorts with chiffon capes, and the iconic Jumbo Geobaskets resembling space boots, pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear.
A standout element in the collection is the use of narrow-loomed Japanese denim with a tarnished gold megacryst coating. This denim, treated in an eco-conscious washhouse in Veneto, Italy, emphasizes Owens’ commitment to sustainability. The facility’s small treatment baths reduce water waste and utilize a water purification process, recycling a portion of the water used. These practices underscore the collection’s alignment with Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) standards.
The collection also features hooded biker jackets crafted from milky canvas bonded with aluminum foil, and vegetable-tanned parchment cowhide from Solofra and Tuscany, Italy. The vegetable tanning process uses only natural tannins, ensuring an environmentally friendly approach. These jackets are paired with jumpsuits and gowns made from silk gazar, woven in the Como region of Italy using Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified organic silk, free from harmful chemicals.
Collaboration plays a significant role in the SS25 collection. Slovenian fashion graduate Tanja Vidic contributes knit bodysuits and t-shirts, adding a fresh, DIY aesthetic. Owens praises Vidic’s imaginative designs, which perfectly complement the collection’s innovative spirit. Additionally, silver silk charmeuse robes designed by long-time collaborator Dafne Balatsos add a touch of historical sentiment. Balatsos tracked down the remaining stock from Oriental Silks, a beloved Hollywood fabric store, to create these luxurious pieces, now available in U.S. stores.
The evolution of the collection’s hair design is another highlight of the show, with last season’s platinum Marcelled hair transitioning to Art Deco crowns. These crowns were created in collaboration with Coco Lucquaid, a renowned Parisian hat-making institution, adding a theatrical element to the runway.
Footwear for the Rick Owens Spring Summer 2025 Collection includes suede marshmallow splint sandals and a deflated leather version of the Straytukay inflated boot from last season. These designs highlight Owens’ ability to blend avant-garde concepts with practical fashion.
Owens’ inclusive casting for the show emphasized community and unity. He invited students and faculty from Paris fashion schools, as well as long-time friends and iconic figures from the trans community, to participate in what he described as a “white satin army of love.” The show’s grand finale featured a gymnast bouquet arranged by Ylva Falk, who previously composed the women-carrying-women segment in Owens’ Cyclops show nine years ago. This symbolic gesture reinforced the collection’s themes of support and community.
The Rick Owens Spring Summer 2025 Collection is a celebration of Hollywood’s eclectic legacy, reimagined through a modern, sustainable lens.
