Fashion house LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi presented its Spring Summer 2025 collection, titled “Under My Skin,” a profound exploration of human emotions and instincts like desire, violence, sensuality, and the innate need for touch. The collection leverages the evocative power of smell, the most abstract of senses, to create a narrative centered around the human form and its metaphorical and literal covering.
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Nouchi plays with an array of sensuous materials that beg to be touched, drawing the audience closer into his envisioned sphere of influence. The use of waxed leather, greasy denim, and black jacquard linen – simulating the texture of human hair – serves as a tactile invitation while also signifying a deeper, sometimes darker, connection to our primal selves. This approach is particularly evident in the garments’ design, where the typical archetype of a wardrobe is challenged and redefined.
Signature elements of Nouchi’s design such as the decisive vertical cut, reminiscent of Lucio Fontana’s spatial concepts, introduce a physical manifestation of violence and eroticism. This is complemented by a stark color palette of bone white, black, and oxblood, enhancing the collection’s intense, raw emotional resonance.
The thematic focus on the body and flesh across the collection serves as a narrative device to explore the dichotomy between primal instincts and the civilized veneer of human existence. Beauty, within this context, is posited as both a potential savior and a last beacon of hope, reflecting our collective gravitation towards aesthetic allure as a means to transcend our base nature.
The collaboration with PUMA reinterprets the iconic Mostro shoes into a radical mule design, employing a single material that doubles as both a functional sneaker and a statement design object. This fusion emphasizes the theme of utility morphing into beauty, which runs parallel to the overarching narrative of the collection.
Furthering the tactile narrative, the LGN X ECCO KOLLEKTIVE collaboration introduces leather as an extension of skin. Here, sensuality is felt through an innovative wax treatment applied over a transparent jersey base, allowing the fabric to stretch and conform to the body. This technique accentuates the material’s textural qualities and its functional adaptability, blurring the lines between the garment and the wearer.
The collaboration with visual artist Sasha Ferré and the Almine Rech gallery introduces an exclusive Jacquard fabric inspired by Ferré’s distinctive art. This partnership marks a significant cross-disciplinary endeavor, melding the textural intricacies of Jacquard weaving with the fluid, expressive quality of Ferré’s artworks.
