In a surprising turn of events, Peter Hawkings, who ascended to the role of creative director at Tom Ford in 2023, has exited the company. Estée Lauder Companies, the owner of Tom Ford, announced Hawkings’ departure on Monday, assuring that a successor will be named soon. This change comes as the brand gears up for its Spring-Summer 2025 collection showcase in Milan this September.
Hawkings has been a cornerstone of the Tom Ford brand for over two decades. Starting as a key deputy under Tom Ford himself, he helped launch Tom Ford Menswear in 2006 and climbed the ranks to senior vice president. When Ford sold the brand to Estée Lauder in a $2.8 billion deal, Hawkings took on the top creative role, navigating the brand through its transition under new ownership, including a strategic partnership with the Italian group Zegna.
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Hawkings’ initial collections paid tribute to Ford’s iconic designs from his Gucci days, featuring bold pieces like leather micro-shorts and hip-hugging skirts. His subsequent work leaned into commercially viable outerwear, with military-inspired peacoats and leather trenches. While some collections received glowing reviews for their vibrant energy, others were seen as playing it safe, lacking the daring edge Ford was known for.
Despite mixed reviews, Hawkings managed to maintain a high level of celebrity attendance at his shows, comparable to the days when Tom Ford himself was at the helm. His departure leaves a significant gap as Zegna and Estée Lauder continue their plans for the brand, including doubling store counts and relaunching womenswear with a focus on handbags, aiming to drive growth and profitability.
Financially, Tom Ford has shown promising performance under Zegna’s management. In the first quarter of 2024, the fashion unit reported €65 million in sales, with strong results in the United States. However, a slowdown in luxury demand globally poses challenges, and the transition to a new creative director could introduce uncertainties.
The fashion industry is abuzz with speculation about who will take over the creative reins at Tom Ford. As the brand prepares for its next phase, stakeholders and fans await the announcement of Hawkings’ successor, hoping for a new leader who can bring fresh energy and continue the brand’s legacy.
