Fashion house Vivienne Westwood presented its Autumn Winter 2024.25 campaign, showcasing a blend of historical aesthetics and contemporary sensibilities, all set against the backdrop of Margate’s faded seaside glamour. The campaign, photographed in the coastal town known for its picturesque yet weathered charm, serves as a fitting canvas for this season’s collection.
The campaign’s setting plays an important role in enhancing the narrative of the collection. Margate, with its distinct light and atmospheric coastal air, provides a timeless quality that complements the historical references embedded in the collection. The stark contrast of historical garments against modern, brutalist structures creates a visual dialogue between past and present, reflecting the brand’s ethos.
Captured by fashion photographer Juergen Teller, the campaign features Andreas Kronthaler, Hamaam Pelewura, Harry Browse, Kristen McMenamy, and Tiana Mohammed. In charge of creative direction was Dovile Drizyte, with styling from Sabina Schreder. Beauty is work of hair stylist Charlie Le Mindu, and makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom.
At the heart of the collection lies an exploration of the Napoleonic aesthetic and the opulent extravagance of Imperial Rome, enriched with references to classical antiquity and military uniforms. This is evident in the design elements such as full sleeves, high collars, elegant drapery, and the use of gilt metal frames. Accessories like equestrian polished leather and delicate dancing slippers further enhance this historical opulence.
The collection also explores literary inspiration, particularly Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s “The Sorrows of Young Werther.” This tragic novel, a catalyst for the Romantic movement and a favorite of Napoleon, infuses the collection with a sense of literary romanticism.
The collection is characterized by its use of rich textiles, prominently featuring Lochcarron of Scotland tartan and other printed tartans. These fabrics are draped to create outerwear, tailored pieces, shirts, and dresses, embodying a fusion of tradition and innovation. Military details such as frogging on jacquard knitwear and bustle skirts in organic cotton drill highlight the brand’s commitment to sustainability while maintaining a historical aesthetic.
Underscoring the fusion of tradition and modernity, the collection features Harris Tweed and box denim, earthy tailoring stripes, and creatively torn knitwear. These elements demonstrate Vivienne Westwood’s commitment to sustainable fashion, focusing on organic and recycled materials. The whimsical addition of ‘toe’ shoes adds a playful touch, reinforcing the collection’s untamed spirit.
