Ronald van der Kemp unveiled his 21st Wardrobe collection, titled “Let the Sun Shine In,” marking another step in his mission to redefine luxury fashion with new ethics. Since its inception in 2014, Ronald van der Kemp has championed a sustainable approach to haute couture, utilizing vintage and surplus materials to craft his creations. This season’s collection not only continues this tradition but elevates it with an array of handwoven Thai silks and reclaimed materials that challenge the industry’s norms.
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Every piece in the SS25 collection is an example of the possibilities of sustainable fashion. Employing materials like vintage couture fabrics, leather remnants from luxury brands, and even repurposed items like vintage feathers and wall hangings, van der Kemp crafts a narrative of luxurious responsibility. The collection also features jewelry and embellishments made from reimagined plastic bottles and antique finds, showcasing the brand’s commitment to innovative, eco-friendly couture.
In a special collaboration with Thayna Soares, the collection pays homage to the exquisite craftsmanship of Thai silk, sourced from local archives. This collaboration highlights the timeless elegance and unique beauty of these textiles, intricately worked into designs that underscore both the heritage and the potential of handcrafted silk. Pieces such as the mermaid gown named ‘La Reine Soleil’ with its intarsia wave seaming and sunray beaded neckline exemplify this blend of tradition and modern fashion sensibilities.
Van der Kemp’s approach goes beyond mere reuse. He celebrates the “perfect imperfection” of handwork, allowing the human touch to guide the creation of each piece. This philosophy is vividly reflected in the collection’s intricate detailing and the unique stories each outfit tells, emphasizing intuition, love, passion, and artisanship over mass-produced uniformity.
The collection also explores cultural and historical references, drawing inspiration from the Victorian fin de siècle and the vibrant cabarets of Weimar Berlin. By exploring how past generations have dealt with external and internal dread through decadence and creativity, van der Kemp connects historical resilience with contemporary challenges, infusing his pieces with both a narrative depth and a call to action. By successfully marrying ethical practices with high fashion, van der Kemp not only challenges his peers and the industry at large but also provides a compelling vision of how fashion can proceed with conscience.
