Ahluwalia‘s FW25 collection, titled “Sanctuary,” explores the themes of conservation and preservation, incorporating historical narratives and cultural memories directly into the design of its pieces. Under the direction of Priya Ahluwalia, the collection explores the significance of safeguarding cultural artifacts and stories, drawing rich inspiration from a diverse sources ranging from family heirlooms to ancient craftsmanship.
The concept of curation is central to this season’s narrative. Ahluwalia reflects on the care with which objects are preserved, using textiles and silhouettes to echo the rituals of custodianship. The collection infuses tactile elements that embody the essence of historical preservation, such as prints and textures inspired by ancient Nigerian pottery, classical Indian murals, and significant literary works like “Afro-Atlantic Histories.” These elements not only celebrate but also immortalize the exchanges between Africa and its diaspora, resonating deeply with Ahluwalia’s own Indian-Nigerian heritage.
Tailoring emerges as a pivotal element within the collection, with each piece telling a story of its own. The Kholi coat, for example, pays homage to a jacket once worn by Ahluwalia’s grandfather in 1970s Mumbai, combining traditional menswear styles with intricate details that invoke a sense of nostalgia and reverence for the past. This nostalgic undercurrent extends through the use of materials that mimic the static of VHS tapes or the patina on worn surfaces, suggesting a deep connection to the past through the medium of fashion.
Texture and materiality play significant roles, mirroring the layered and complex nature of conservation. The use of distressed corduroy and checks, reimagined in contemporary proportions, integrates classic motifs with modern design, offering a fresh take on familiar patterns. In womenswear, the collection introduces a juxtaposition of archival inspiration with modern partywear elements, featuring luxurious silk jacquards and velvet suits detailed with organza, capturing the delicate balance between preserving the fragile and embracing the new.
Sustainability is integrated throughout Ahluwalia’s design philosophy, highlighting the use of natural fibers such as organic cotton, wool, and silk, along with recycled materials. This commitment ensures that each garment not only respects the past but also protects the future, aligning ecological responsibility with aesthetic intention.
The collection’s presentation, set against the backdrop of the historic Bell House and captured through the lens of photographer Tara L. C. Sood, enhances the thematic focus on legacy and conservation. This season, Ahluwalia not only crafts a line of clothing but creates a compelling story of cultural reverence, memory, and the timeless art of preservation, making the FW25 collection a reflection on the threads that connect generations.
