The FW25 runway show by Jil Sander, envisioned by Lucie and Luke Meier, presented an aesthetic that turned darkness into a metaphor for love. The setting was minimal: a pitch-black stage where the only separation between the audience and the catwalk was a thin veil of curtains. This darkness set the stage for a collection that played with the concepts of shadow and light, both literally and metaphorically.
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Recomposed by Benji B, the soundtrack’s dreamlike vortex of sounds and voices set a tone that was both reassuring and deliberate. The garments themselves were punctuated with steel studs and eyelets, their sharp metallic glints standing out against the predominantly black, white, and red palette. The footwear, pointy shoes and boots in stark colors, added an exclamation point to the bold statement of each ensemble.
The Meiers’ designs showcased an elegant inversion of the dark into light. Floral prints slowly emerged from the depths of black fabrics, appearing on lean, long dresses, trenches, and shirts. Raw cuts and textured additions, like ribbons on cream gowns or feathers and leaves on wool tailoring, elevated everyday elegance.
The collection was a tactile feast of textures and contrasts. Urban yet nocturnal, the garments combined toughness with decorative elements, embodying a lush, glitzy reality. This was a nod to the rebellious spirit of New Wave and a free reinterpretation of traditional codes. The designers’ every inspiration transformed into garments that conveyed a desire for beauty and glamour.
Attention to detail was evident in the hand-applied sequin stripes on dresses of knitted velvet, taffeta, and silk, as well as in the plush shearling fur coats and collars. The diversity in the collection was also seen in the knitwear, which ranged from shrunken to oversized, crafted from alpaca and cashmere. This variety extended to the accessories, with a range of clutches, handbags, shoppers, and shoulder bags that were both functional and sculpturally bold.
The construction of masculine jackets and coats cleverly played with severity, incorporating unexpected elements like studded belts, lace inserts, and colorful zips. These pieces, along with a color palette sprinkled with silver, burgundy, red, blue, and lilac, turned conventional darkness on its head, transforming it from matte to glossy, from solid to transparent. In doing so, the collection traversed traditional forms of menswear and womenswear, merging sensitivity with a sort of armored elegance.
