Since taking the helm at OFF-WHITE in 2022, Ib Kamara has skillfully honored the legacy of founder Virgil Abloh while incorporating his distinct aesthetic into the brand’s renowned streetwear. Following New York Fashion Week debut at Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2 last season, Kamara returned to Paris for the FW5 collection, presenting “STATE OF RESISTANCE”, a line that dystopian theme with apocalyptic yet fashionable streetwear designed to command attention. Photographer Sohom Das captured the energy behind the scenes at the OFF-WHITE FW25 show, exclusively for DSCENE Magazine.
BACKSTAGE
Kamara’s innovative approach was evident in his use of metal studs and bird-printed neckties that added a rebellious edge to traditional shirting. Accessories like pocket-heavy berets and animalistic features leaped from one outfit to another, infusing the collection with a spirit of rebellion. Outfits were further enhanced with swollen bomber jackets, hooded parkas paired with military-inspired belts, and flight-ready coats alongside baggy washed denim emblazoned with Off-White™’s distinctive frayed crossed arrow logo. Kamara emphasized structured shoulders in his designs, symbolizing resilience and defiance, while employing humble materials to reflect the democratic ethos at the core of the collection. The use of experimental techniques on jersey and denim enhanced the texture and movement of the fabrics, offering a fresh take on traditional materials.
The collection’s primarily neutral palette was interspersed with bursts of aquamarine, deep purples, and fiery reds, injecting a dynamic energy into the designs. Kamara continued to push creative boundaries by incorporating bouclé into jersey materials, presenting big-shouldered ivory jackets and color-woven cropped menswear jackets. The collection emphasized utility with numerous storage solutions integrated into shoes, pants, and jackets, ensuring that each piece was not only stylistically significant but also practical.
