For FW25, Julien Dossena presents a collection built on contrast, containment and release, structure and fluidity, restraint and excess. The show explores the push and pull between protection and liberation, reflecting the tension of holding onto something precious before letting it go. Through shape, material, and movement, Rabanne FW25 articulates this duality, crafting silhouettes that shift between control and abandon.
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Fur takes center stage, both as a symbol of luxury and an untamed force. Plush, enveloping coats offer a sense of warmth and security, while skirts made of swaying bushy tails break free with each step. Tailored wools and coated cottons introduce a stricter structure, but even these controlled forms contain bursts of contrast, fur peeking out from kilts, metallic layers peeling back, and beaded scarves tracing lines that disrupt the expected. Slits, dimensional textures, and cascades of tiny paillettes heighten the tension between restraint and release, while a striking pill-print suit adds an element of excess with its sleek, graphic appeal.
The collection’s palette moves unpredictably between warm and cool tones, from apricot and burgundy to deep blue and lilac. The interplay of colors reflects the theme of shifting states, while men’s looks echo the same chromatic fluidity. Real and faux leather merge seamlessly with layers of tailoring and fur, creating a sense of cohesion while embracing contrast.
Material experimentation continues through the integration of metal mesh, lace, and plastic. Belted shells encase delicate lace, sheer dresses float over wool and leather, and flounced sheaths shimmer over structured foundations. Accessories further underscore the collection’s dualities, combat boots lace high for a grounded, defiant look, while Mary Janes paired with shimmering socks nod to a grunge influence, hinting at nostalgia amid the forward-looking designs.
Beyond the material and form, the collection suggests a deeper reflection on security and uncertainty. An old-world key worn around the neck becomes a symbol, whether as a safeguard, a relic of personal history, or a tool for unlocking something yet to be discovered. It reinforces the underlying tension of the collection: the instinct to protect, yet the urge to explore the unknown.
Rabanne FW25 is a study in opposites, balancing precision with spontaneity. The collection holds onto history, craftsmanship, and sentiment while pushing forward into new territory. It is both armor and invitation, containment and release—a striking reflection of the constant shifts that define modern expression.
