Anthony Vaccarello continues to refine the essence of Saint Laurent with his FW25 women’s collection, emphasizing a minimalist to fashion. Presented under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower during the final evening of Paris Fashion Week, the collection adheres to the brand’s heritage of clean lines and sophisticated simplicity. The designs showcase a dedication to form and structure, where each piece speaks volumes through its precise construction rather than elaborate details.
FALL WINTER 2025 COLLECTIONS
The runway was a tableau of contrasts, where stark, structured silhouettes met the fluidity of rich, textured fabrics. Stretch materials were ingeniously paired with guipure, creating a novel tactile experience, while traditional couture fabrics underwent a process of distressing to achieve an edgy, worn-in look. Even more striking, silk cigaline featuring animal and floral motifs was encased in silicone, presenting a futuristic take on classic prints.
Color played a pivotal role in defining the collection’s mood. Vaccarello opted for deep, saturated tones that are quintessentially Saint Laurent, think deep blacks and moody blues that transitioned from piece to piece. This monochromatic scheme was punctuated by occasional bursts of primary colors, seen in ribboned dresses and sleek, glossy tops that brought a vibrant yet controlled chaos to the runway.
Accessories were not mere afterthoughts but integral to the collection’s narrative. Pointed shoes decorated with satin square roses and jewelry crafted from rock crystal, Yves Saint Laurent’s stone of choice, complemented the clothing’s minimalism with subtle opulence. These elements underscored Vaccarello’s skill in balancing stark simplicity with impactful details.
The setting of the show mirrored the collection’s thematic underpinnings. Set against a backdrop of an onyx oval, the venue was transformed with digital projections of brown-hued marble. This dramatic environment reflected the collection’s core of mineral-inspired tones and textures, suggesting both solidity and ethereal depth.
As the models strode confidently down the runway, Vaccarello’s vision for the Saint Laurent woman was clear. She is bold, unapologetically modern, and commands attention with every garment she wears.
