Luxury house CHANEL brought its Cruise 2025/26 presentation to one of Italy’s most fabled locations: the Villa d’Este on Lake Como. Known for its ornate architecture and celebrity clientele, the 16th-century hotel offered more than a postcard setting. It informed the mood, palette, and energy of the entire collection, which reimagines the elegance of dressing for late afternoons and luminous evenings by the water.
The CHANEL Creation Studio designed the collection with hotel life in mind – specifically, the refined excess of a luxury retreat where every look feels like an occasion. Pastel taffeta ball gowns open the collection in short silhouettes, with shades of peach, blue, and soft pink echoing the lake’s reflective light. These colors extend into tweed skirt suits and eveningwear, pulling from the villa’s ochre-toned façade and sunlit interiors. Sofia Coppola directed the teaser film, which distilled the tone into a series of tableaus featuring balconies, long corridors, and sun-drenched patios.
Though the collection draws from relaxed resort attire, a dancefloor sensibility cuts through its softness. A black trouser and blouse set is entirely embroidered with sequins, while a gold lurex damask suit adds movement with every step. Disco references emerge again in a pink and orange striped lamé jumpsuit – plunging, open-backed, and layered with a matching cape. These evening looks favor rhythm and shine, suggesting the after-hours glamour of a villa party slipping into the early morning.
Other pieces gesture toward cinematic opulence, without abandoning ease. An ivory suit channels old Hollywood with a long, sculptural cape, while a bustier black taffeta mini dress is paired with a sheer overlay. A blouse with wide sleeves, embroidered in rhinestones and beads, matches with crisp white taffeta trousers – another combination that seems designed for private dinners under chandeliers. Visconti’s influence lingers in these ensembles, a nod to the filmmaker’s long friendship with Gabrielle Chanel and his presence in the region.
Florals drawn from the gardens at Villa d’Este appear in beaded trims, lace, and chiffon. Rhododendrons, wisteria, camellias, and magnolias inform the embroidered motifs that decorate flared dresses, cropped suits, and full skirts. A white Spencer and trouser combination introduces these flowers in a quieter register, while a black skirt suit is elevated with intricate beading and delicate outlines.
Anchoring the cruise elements are classic pieces: white straight-cut trousers, a strawberry-toned pea coat, and a navy-and-white striped jersey suit. Knit polos, cardigans, and dresses introduce soft color-blocking through multicolored stripes, referencing leisurewear while maintaining polish. Accessories extend the theme: oversized sunglasses, patent mules, oversized carryalls, and pearl details appear alongside silk scarves tied in the hair or at the ankle. Long gloves add an element of Hollywood polish without skewing into costume.
The CHANEL Cruise 2025/26 collection offers a specific vision – clothing for moments that feel suspended between privacy and performance. Villa d’Este’s history as a retreat for stars, artists, and aristocrats forms the backdrop, while each look suggests a life where dressing well is simply part of the ritual.
the collection is stunning! the best of chanel! but i am very disappointed with the location choice. i know its a famous hotel villa on lake Como but it is embarrassing to have a chanel runway show as a runway through a restaurant…. cmon now. especially with the heritage of karl Lagerfelds amazing set design 😐