UNDERCOVER Resort 2026 womenswear collection by Jun Takahashi approaches proportion, restraint, and understated disruption. The collection builds a narrative through cut and texture, prioritizing shape and construction over visual excess. Each piece carries its own rhythm, but together they create a steady pace.
Throughout the lineup, Takahashi works with tension. Tailoring shares space with volume, precision meets ease, and control resists collapse. White poplin shirting sits against wide pleated trousers, often cinched or restructured with fabric belts that create deliberate shifts in silhouette. These looks suggest a utilitarian undercurrent but resist reducing function to uniformity. Pieces feel refined without being precious, thoughtful without leaning on decoration.
Color remains subdued, interrupted by occasional sparks, burnt reds, powder blues, and metallic touches that punctuate a primarily neutral palette. These moments avoid flash and instead bring forward shifts in tone and finish. Layering plays a central role, often combining shirts and knits with unexpected extensions and hems that peek or hang beneath outerwear. Shapes taper and release across the body, favoring cropped jackets, loose pants, and boxy tops that move away from body-conscious dressing.
Fabric choices also push the dialogue forward. Crisp cotton, soft jerseys, and matte nylons feature heavily, but contrasts develop through placement and pairing rather than surface treatment. A dense sweatshirt paired with translucent trousers alters weight and proportion. A classic bomber is redrawn in velvet flock or feathered textures, pushing material language into new territory. Lace inserts and slashed panels expose only what’s necessary, suggestion instead of declaration.
Prints appear sparingly but effectively. When they do, they shift the tone entirely. Large florals disrupt the muted rhythm of the collection, filling wide-leg trousers and matching tops with a kind of flat graphic energy. These florals feel more like marks or impressions than ornamental additions, controlled bursts of color across carefully spaced silhouettes.
Accessories and footwear follow suit. Glossy flats, split-toe details, and softly structured bags in metallic finishes or crinkled textures offer small disturbances to the otherwise clean line of the clothing. These accessories operate like quiet adjustments that keep the full look unsettled, active, and in motion.
