For Spring Summer 2027, Jorge Luis Salinas presents El Retablo, a collection rooted in Peruvian culture and the visual language of the Andes. Shown during Milan Fashion Week, the collection takes its name from the Retablo, a traditional Andean devotional box used to preserve scenes of religious processions, agricultural rituals and family life in miniature form. Behind the scenes at J. Salinas Spring Summer 2027, Phoebe Joy photographed the collection backstage exclusively for DSCENE Magazine.
BACKSTAGE
Salinas translates that idea into clothing, treating garments as containers for memory, technique and cultural reference. Organza and ultra-fine Pima cotton form the base of several looks, layered with detailed crochet and visible hand-stitching. Short dresses, flowing capes and sheer constructions appear throughout the collection, often paired with denser embroidered surfaces.
Crochet plays a central role, extending across sleeves, hems and larger sections of fabric. The handwork remains visible, giving the garments a tactile quality and placing attention on the techniques used to build each piece. Embroidery adds further texture, while transparent materials introduce contrast between lightness and structure.
Color draws directly from the Andes. Pistachio and turquoise appear alongside coral, orange and carrot shades, while lilac and violet add cooler notes to the palette. These combinations bring saturated color across dresses, capes and layered pieces, giving the collection a clear visual identity.
The production of El Retablo also involved a collective of Peruvian artisan women who worked on the crochet and textile techniques used throughout the collection. Salinas appeared with the group during the finale, bringing the people responsible for the handwork onto the runway alongside him.
Discover J. Salinas Spring Summer 2027 Collection
The collection presents Peruvian techniques and references through contemporary silhouettes and materials. Traditional methods remain visible through crochet, embroidery and hand-stitching, while organza, Pima cotton and sheer constructions place those techniques within a Spring Summer 2027 wardrobe. With El Retablo, J. Salinas builds the collection around memory, material and cultural reference, using the Retablo as both title and structural idea.
