MARNI introduces its FW25 Vol. 1 collection through a collaboration between creative director Francesco Risso, Olaolu Slawn, and Soldier Boyfriend. The project took shape inside an East London studio in September 2024, where the trio joined forces to create large-format canvases filled with vivid characters: satyrs, wolves, and fairy‑tale-like figures, reflecting their artistic dialogue. Risso led the initiative from the brand’s established design language, while Slawn and Soldier brought raw symbolic gesture to the work.
These works became more than reference material. Saatchi Yates, contemporary art gallery in London, presented them as “The Pink Sun,” a body of paintings that later shaped both the set design and the garments in the Milan runway show. Rather than isolate fashion and art, the collection threads both through each other, building a visual vocabulary from sharp iconography and fast, expressive gestures.
Shirts, boxer shorts, and shirtdresses in striped cotton poplin feature direct transpositions of the trio’s symbols. Tears, wolves, and tulips appear across prints and embellishments, forming a vocabulary that runs through the wardrobe. The knitwear uses intarsia techniques in high-saturation colors to recall the surface of tempera painting. The yarn textures push the sense of visual motion already present in the canvas work.
Soft brushed cotton jersey appears in sweatshirts, t-shirts, and loose shorts. Tote bags shaped like sports tank tops extend the collection’s play with hybrid garments. Across the lineup, Marni stays close to the impulses shaped during the residency, not through exact replication, but by maintaining the energy of the process.
The campaign closes the first release of the season. Photographed at 4 Princelet Street, a Georgian building with its own East London history, the images follow Soldier and Slawn through rooms filled with light and shadow. The collection appears as memory, clothing worn by those who made it, in a setting shaped by the same place that started the process.
The co-designed pieces are now available at MARNI flagship stores, online, and through selected global retailers.
