Jean Paul Gaultier Pre Spring 2027 marks Duran Lantink’s first venture into a Pre Spring collection for the house, and he approaches it through the idea of a wardrobe in motion. Titled Le Vestiaire 1, the collection does not treat seasonal dressing as a fixed category. Instead, it builds a set of garments designed to move between moments, occasions and ways of dressing, while staying closely connected to the house’s visual language.
The starting point comes from analogue fitting photographs shot by Jean Paul Gaultier himself. The images, taken during the 1997 collection, become trompe l’œil prints for the new season. Lantink uses them as more than archive material. He turns them into a surface, a memory and a garment system, allowing past fittings to reappear on pieces made for the present. This gives the collection its clearest tension: clothing looks back, yet it keeps moving forward.
Gaultier’s familiar themes run through the collection with directness. Sailor, military and biker references appear across shirts, outerwear, accessories and silhouettes. Printed medals and chevrons decorate shirts and outer layers, while high collars bring a protective quality to several looks. Anchor detailed belts add another clear house code, giving the collection a sharp graphic finish without overwhelming its wearability.
Lantink works best here when he shifts proportion and function. A padded bomber dress brings volume into a familiar sportswear shape. An inverted lapel skirt takes a tailoring detail and changes its position, turning structure into disruption. An upside down slip shirt dress continues that approach, using transformation as a practical design tool rather than a purely conceptual gesture. These pieces give Le Vestiaire 1 its energy, because they alter recognizable garments while keeping them within reach.
The trompe l’œil effects also play a central role. Blown up images and printed surfaces create visual tricks that connect directly to Gaultier’s long fascination with the body, illusion and performance. Lantink handles those ideas through a contemporary lens, yet he keeps the mood grounded. The collection feels playful without losing its sense of wardrobe logic.
As a natural continuation of Fall Winter 2026, the collection brings tailoring, sportswear and elegance into the same frame. Brown pinstripes appear alongside a nylon suit jacket dress and drop shoulder vest and jacket. These pieces carry different registers of dressing, from formal to technical, yet Lantink places them inside one coherent system.
Several house signatures return with a sense of permanence. Conical bras, tire inspired jewelry and distinctive footwear appear as pieces that belong to the wardrobe rather than as isolated seasonal motifs. This decision strengthens the collection’s central point. Lantink does not present Gaultier codes as references to revisit once. He treats them as working tools, ready for reuse, adjustment and transformation.
