DES_PHEMMES approaches Spring Summer 2027 through fragility and gesture, using both as ways to shape fabric and expose the act of making. Titled “SIGNUM – STILL BECOMING,” the collection focuses on surfaces that carry visible traces of manipulation, accumulation and change.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Fragility appears through layering, transparency and overlapping garments. Skirts sit one over another, fastenings remain open and individual elements gather around the body with an almost instinctive quality. These choices give the silhouettes a sense of incompletion, as though each look continues to develop while being worn.
Gesture gives that idea a more physical direction. DES_PHEMMES treats the hand as an active force that changes material through folding, pulling, stitching, gathering and distortion. The fabric records each intervention, leaving evidence of how the surface came into being.
That approach connects the collection with the work of Alberto Burri. DES_PHEMMES does not quote his work directly, instead looking to the way Burri handled material and altered its surface through physical action. Burlap, plastic, paint, tears, tension and puckering become references for thinking about fabric construction and ornament.
The collection also shifts the role of decoration. DES_PHEMMES has long used embroidery, crystals, sequins and three-dimensional elements as part of its visual language. For Spring Summer 2027, embroidery enters the fabric more deeply, acting as a method of changing the material itself.
Fabric is pulled, gathered, scored, layered, stitched and deformed until the surface becomes inseparable from the process that created it. Ornament no longer sits on top of the garment as an added detail. It develops through the transformation of the material.
That logic continues across the collection through stitched combinations of different fabrics, exposed edges, visible cuts and areas of fraying. Manual interventions alter weight, texture and movement, allowing each surface to carry signs of its construction.
Some looks make those changes more direct, with fragments assembled in ways that keep joins and imperfections visible. Others soften the same process through organza and lighter transparent fabrics. The contrast between denser and more delicate materials gives the collection a sense of movement between rawness and refinement.
DES_PHEMMES keeps the silhouettes precise even when the surfaces appear unstable. Irregular textures, worn finishes and loose edges sit within controlled forms, allowing the collection to hold tension between construction and spontaneity.
Color, lightness, transparency and decoration remain present throughout Spring Summer 2027. Crystals, embroidery and applied elements enter the same process of accumulation, making it harder to separate ornament from the material underneath.
“SIGNUM – STILL BECOMING” focuses on the moment before a garment feels complete. DES_PHEMMES leaves the process visible, allowing the hand, material and act of construction to remain part of the final image. The collection treats each surface as evidence of change, with the gesture that produced it still clearly present.
