For Chanel Spring Summer 2027, Matthieu Blazy, Artistic Director of Fashion Activities, continues his conversation with Gabrielle Chanel through a collection centered on the many identities a woman carries throughout her life. Titled La Conversation – Part Three – Different Faces of the Same Coin, the season looks at Gabrielle as a young woman, as Chanel, and as the figure she became through the clothes she created and wore.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Blazy approaches the collection through change, repetition and memory. Gabrielle’s early experiences inform later ideas, allowing different periods of her life to exist within the same garment. The collection begins with jersey underwear and returns to the suit, which appears close to the body and worn directly against bare skin. The structure remains light, allowing the suit to function almost like a second skin.
The clothes trace Gabrielle’s changing relationship with dress. Edwardian corsetry and tailoring appear through details she once wore and later challenged. Those references return as shadow-like boning, peplums, collars and curved bodices. Blazy treats them as traces of former identities that remain visible even as new ones take shape.
Formal day and evening tailoring appears with raw edges, cut into gilets, paired with trousers or reconstructed as pencil-skirt suits. The collection then moves into thirties-style evening gowns with bias structures, sequins, knitting and beadwork. The dresses remain light enough to pull on with the directness of a T-shirt, giving formal clothing a freer relationship with the body.
Blazy also uses layered silk transparencies to create the impression of changing cloud formations. Different fabric weights and printed surfaces mark shifts from morning to golden hour and nightfall, bringing the passage of time into the collection through movement and light.
Bird imagery carries another recurring idea. Swifts and swallows appear across buttons, jewellery and embroidery, giving physical form to the collection’s focus on freedom. That idea continues through the house’s fabric development, where woven and knitted constructions allow the clothes to move more freely around the body.
The final section returns to the relationship between underwear and suiting through a new smocked tweed. Its stretch and mobility give the suit a lighter, more flexible structure, connecting current fabric development with Gabrielle Chanel’s longstanding interest in movement and freedom through clothing.
Accessories follow the same circular structure. Model Dyanira Hurbuscher opens the collection holding Gabrielle Chanel’s own 2.55 bag from the Patrimoine archives and returns with it at the end. Across the collection, flap bags appear in older and newer forms. A new classic introduces a watch-chain lock, while cloud bags refer to the passage of time. The birdcage minaudiere closes the sequence with escaped birds as its central motif.
Blazy describes the collection as a study of Gabrielle Chanel’s layered stories, with each stage of her life leading toward greater freedom. Spring Summer 2027 treats those different identities as connected parts of the same woman, carried forward through clothing, memory and movement.
