Antonio Berardi presented his Fall Winter 2016 collection during the London Fashion Week. The collection is a mixture of English tradition and craftsmanship and the warmth and expressiveness of Sicilian culture and fusion of traditions.
A new assertiveness. This season the Berardi woman has a slightly darker, tougher edge. She is strong, she is confident, she is severe: she is making herself heard. There is power. She is playing with elements of bondage – buckles, belts, piercings in her clothes, the biker jacket, the patent buckled boot. An intense sense of femininity.
There’s a new unexpected erogenous zone around the shoulder, the back of the neck. But her clothing has a new discipline. There are sleeves but they are long and fit like a second skin. Flame, black, white, navy, oxblood. The colours are powerful, true to the Berardi woman. There’s the usual tension between masculine and feminine, strict and playful, tough and fragile. A sense of restraint. A heavy chainmail vest over a delicate chantilly lace gown. A dress with a biker top and the finest whisper of lace. Italian macrame is woven into graphic organic lines with a punctuation of rivet holes. Lace is treated with rubber. Above all there is a finely tuned balance between complexity and ease. Sometimes you don’t know where a dress begins and ends. But always there is modesty. Her sexuality is innate but also closely guarded. Flesh is revealed under leather lacing, but hidden by a careful infrastructure beneath – the modesty peplum, a fine lace corset that leaves nothing exposed but everything to the imagination. – from Antonio Berardi
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All images courtesy of Antonio Beardi