Kiko Kostadinov contemplates the meta-fictional aspects of film and fashion, using them as platforms for storytelling and self-expression on the male body. His latest collection for Spring Summer 2024 draws inspiration from the imperfect beauty of our everyday lives, where cultures, roles, and occasions intertwine. Influenced by the spatial works of conceptual artist Tom Burr, the collection takes shape as a liminal space between archive, backstage, and front-of-house, reflecting in the tacked, pleated, and disrupted surfaces of the garments themselves.
SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTIONS
Continuing the exploration of formality in disarray, the collection incorporates a fusion of colors, costumes, and vignettes from Pier Paolo Pasolini’s short film “La Ricotta” (1962), offering a fresh and irreverent perspective. These elements inform the color palette, running order, and bursts of nocturnal elegance within the collection. Garment construction relies on functional tabs, epaulettes, flat pleats, and hand-rolled raw jersey appliqués, emphasizing their importance this season.
Subtle tonalities of greys, browns, and greens are enlivened by pops of cadmium yellow, cobalt blue, rose, lilac, and carmine. Fabrics vary from matte to shiny, ranging from ultra-light shirting cottons and bonded jersey to lurex metallics, hammered satin, iridescent wool, and diamond jacquard.
The collection incorporates Bulgarian star and flower embroideries, ruffled gazar collars, ornamental buttons, and satin tuxedo stripes, injecting moments of frivolity into the bold structure of jackets and coats with an 1980’s flair. Sensual tension between the dressed and undressed is conveyed through gilet jumpsuits, belted milano knit robe coats, and zip jersey tunics. Hybrid shirts and shirt jackets feature knotted jersey side panels, double collars, and multi-button configurations, allowing for interpretation and playful experimentation.
Contrast striped k-kable knitwear creates a graphic layered effect, interplaying with gilets, cardigans, and thin scarves, while fine k-shaped pattern work adds movement to trouser shapes, pleated tanks, and t-shirts. Footwear includes the return of the wave-soled tonkin boot as a massive sandal, accompanied by new flat slip-ons in crinkled leather.
