With her Spring Summer 2024 collection titled sæla (which is icelandic and stands for ‘happiness’), Austrian designer Rebekka Ruétz takes us on a journey through a Nordic island country: Iceland. For next season, the designer took her inspiration from the mysticism of Iceland and its breath-taking nature. With a large variety of volcanoes, glaciers, Northern lights, colourful mountains, rivers and waterfalls, Iceland’s nature is incredibly interesting to observe. Moreover the Nordic beauty hosts many marine and coast habitants. In that context, a magic, mysterious and powerful range has been created. Being significant for the style of this line is its edgy, exceptional approach paired with an incredibly interesting material mix. Therefore it is the perfect line for a cosmopolitan, strong woman that dares to wear the most unique pieces. Worth of mentioning is also the fact the label focuses on sustainability and follows several quality- and ecological principles: for instance the collections do not contain any leather, fur or silk. You can describe this style philosophy as ‘slow fashion’ that takes care of the environment and its residents.
SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTIONS
What makes this collection so special is the pairing of contrary elements: Protective and functional silhouettes team up with complex textures, twisted layers, and eye-catching golden accessories and gemstones. Rich shades and varied textures create illusory tension. If you have a closer look at some prints, you will notice they took their inspiration from sparkling polar lights.
Accessory-wise, all you can imagine becomes real. The designer repeatedly uses several golden link chains and pairs them with bracelets and over-sized hoop earrings. If you observe these looks clearly, you will also notice these golden accessories on top of the models’ sandals. The shoe choice of the models comprises only flat shoes – comfortable yet cool, with just the right amount of each. Moreover headjewellery gives some looks a very individual flair. Many handbags appear like over-sized pillows and underline the extravagant approach of the looks.
Recycled “leftovers” from skiwear and jewellery combined with handpicked laces express their creativity in edgy designs. Besides that the whole collection creatively plays with various lengths. Ruffles, fringes and asymmetric tendencies underline the special overall image of numerous looks. Sundry outfits are focused on the waist which emphasizes the feminine character of these creations.
The colour palette is dominated by strong nuances: On the one hand midnight black, scarlet, and northern lights mysteriously sparkle and shine, on the other hand purple starts dancing next to rich gold and light-flooded polar white. Vivid yellow is often paired with black – what a strong colour combination! By choosing these powerful tones, you notice once more the whole collection is inspired by the colour palette of Iceland’s spectacular nature.
The make-up of the models accentuates the mysterious approach of the looks: it is focused on dark lips. Sometimes they are provided with subtle golden highlights. The hair of the models is often worn open, braided elements are true eye-catchers. As favourite nailcolours, white and graphite are worn. In addition to that, their length is kept rather long.
With her Spring Summer 2024 collection titled ‘sæla‘, Rebekka Ruétz takes her audience on a journey through Iceland. What stays in mind is the mysterious, extravagant and powerful character of the collections’ looks. ‘sæla’ can be also translated as a favourable coincidence of lucky circumstances, and these circumstances all seem to come together in this line.
©Rebekka Ruétz, Photography Sebastian Reuter / Getty Images
Review by Sussan Zeck for DSCENE Magazine
Runway: Sebastian Reuter / Getty Images for Rebekka Ruétz
