The Courrèges FW’24 Men’s and Women’s pre-collection, designed by Nicolas Di Felice, presents tailored shapes, impeccable fabrics, and sensual derivations. This collection is an evolution of Di Felice’s past works, showcasing a diverse cast of characters that embody his eclectic visual style. From the perverse bourgeoisie and wayward sailors to leather boys and girls and their post-punk counterparts, each archetype reflects the duality of precision and subversion, balancing the House’s daring heritage with Di Felice’s personal underground fetishes.
The collection begins with the precise outlines of a Prince-of-Wales suit coat and pencil skirt, designed to zip and unzip at the wearer’s will. It features open slit sleeves, a key detail from FW’23, and a jetted pocket under the navel, offering a risqué take on practicality. The styles follow a unisex approach, with convertible jersey tanks, vinyl and crepe classics, and contemporary volumes, accompanied by the Holy Bag, first seen on the SS’24 runway, now available in various sizes and colors.
As the narrative progresses, drop-front pants evoke Querelle-like sailors, intertwining fantasies of uniformed boys cruising the night. The collection’s silhouettes manifest a desire for tactile and wild experiences, with polo shirts and dresses draped over the shoulders, deep plunging necklines, and slashed bodices.
The collection includes knitted balaclavas from the 1960s House archives and corn-based latex, hinting at a history of sexual liberation. Slashed designs reveal a longing gaze, challenging the comfort of intimacy and inviting the warmth of connection. The Courrèges FW’24 pre-collection is a study of public expressions of private desires.
