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The collection is a mix of structure and fluidity, combining sharp tailoring with softness and flow. A white broadcloth trench, worn over a ruched shirt and feathered tie—referencing Gluck’s final paintings—makes a striking statement, paired with an organza slip dress edged in black and a beaded skirt reminiscent of pixelated flowers. Each element is crafted with intricate detail, from the handpainted beads to the sunray pleats that give the look a sense of movement and elegance. The juxtaposition of tailored precision and feminine draping captures the essence of Gluck’s gender-fluid approach to style.
Daley’s signature menswear influences remain present, with nods to Gluck’s tailored uniform. A black wool day coat, high-collared shirt, and roomy pants showcase this aesthetic, while a silk scarf print of a cross-stitched dalmatian adds a whimsical touch to a matching shirt and skirt set. Another standout is a floral ripstop trench coat, its blurred print created through an innovative weaving process, trimmed with ecru leather for a subtle yet luxurious finish. Each piece feels deliberate, with every detail contributing to a cohesive narrative that celebrates individuality and the freedom to mix masculine and feminine elements.
Volume and texture play key roles throughout the collection, with pieces like tweed jackets buttoned to the neck and knee-length shorts covered in crochet—a nod to Gluck’s family business, Lyon’s tea rooms, from which they distanced themselves. Playfulness is incorporated into the silhouettes, such as a cropped trench that transforms into a bustle at the back. A bias-cut slip dress, printed with cross-stitch florals and accented with diagonal pin-tucks, plays with texture and shape in ways that echo Daley’s earlier menswear work.
Pleats emerge as a central technique in the collection, a callback to Daley’s graduate work on tuxedo shirts. They are reimagined here in modern forms, like a dress with bold florals and angular pleats that cut across the body. Another standout is a sheer silk organza smock with an off-center crisscross of pin-tucks, fastened with Daley’s signature keyhole tie. These details add a sense of lightness and movement, contrasting with the more structured elements in the collection.
Gluck, the artist behind the collection’s inspiration, was known for rejecting their birth name and embracing their queer identity throughout their life. Their work, primarily focused on portraits and floral paintings, reached its height in the 1920s and 30s, though they experienced a long creative block in later years. Today, their works can be found in renowned collections like the Tate and Victoria & Albert Museum. Through this collection, S.S. Daley honors Gluck’s legacy, blending a gender-fluid approach with modern design to create a wardrobe that celebrates individuality, complexity, and style without limits.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
