TATRAS presents its Fall Winter 2025 collection with a showcase that pushes the boundaries of technical outerwear. Structured around curved silhouettes and deliberate proportions, the collection experiments with fabrication and movement, bringing a contemporary approach to functional design. Held during Paris Fashion Week at 24 Avenue Marceau in Paris, the presentation unfolds as a multi-sensory experience curated by Mehdi Dakhli, merging fashion, art, and sound in a carefully orchestrated space.
The collection introduces fresh variations of water-repellent taffeta, where cropped bomber jackets and anoraks play with contrasting finishes. Matte and glossy surfaces interact through chain, tile, and diamond-shaped quilting, reinforcing TATRAS’ continued focus on practical yet innovative outerwear. A palette of mist, peat brown, cool grey, black, cobalt, and soft neutrals reshapes classic down jackets with a refined perspective. Meanwhile, tailored peacoats and varsity silhouettes in fine Japanese wool add a structured edge to the seasonal lineup.
Engineered for adaptability, the collection offers an array of light zip parkas, six-pocket down jackets, and sleeveless gilets with drawstring waists. These elements layer over tartan shirting, reinforcing a balance between protection and style. The lower half of the collection is defined by brushed technical twill joggers and patchwork cargo pants, designed to exaggerate the contoured silhouette.
Throughout the collection, form and function are considered in equal measure. Volume is manipulated to enhance mobility, while structured pieces retain a sense of elegance despite their technical composition. The contrast between urban utility and artistic influence defines the essence of TATRAS’ evolving aesthetic, bringing together traditional craftsmanship and contemporary fabrication.
More than just a runway show, the Fall Winter 2025 presentation is conceptualized as a living performance. Taking place in a transitional space within Haussmannian Paris, the setting creates an immersive environment where the past and present coexist. The collection unfolds within a setting of architectural remnants, where layered textures and fractured surfaces become an extension of the garments themselves.
Belgian musician and composer Bill John Bultheel scores the event with an extended edit of Mt. Analogue (Bourse de Commerce, 2023). The composition, written for piano, brass, and the medieval serpent instrument, draws inspiration from Sophocles’ satirical drama The Bloodhounds, a narrative recounting Apollo’s first encounter with music. This haunting score complements the fluid movement of the collection.
Dakhli’s vision for the TATRAS Fall Winter 2025 experience extends beyond garments, incorporating a dialogue between multiple disciplines. The space is punctuated by the sculptural series Totems (2020-2024) by French artist Stéphane Margolis, integrating ikebana arrangements that introduce an organic counterpoint to the structural setting.
Visual references to the Memphis movement and the Bauhaus theatre costumes of Oskar Schlemmer infuse the presentation with a sense of graphic rhythm. The humanoid forms of Margolis’ monolithic sculptures establish parallels with the color-blocked garments, reinforcing the dialogue between shape, texture, and movement.
