Through the refracted lens of surrealism, _J.L-A.L_ Fall Winter 2025 Collection redefines the boundaries of perception. Familiar silhouettes dissolve into an uncanny realm where garments become artful explorations of distortion. This season’s offering challenges the tangible, transforming it into a dynamic interaction between illusion and reality, presenting designs that engage both visually and conceptually.
Inspired by La Planète Sauvage (1973), the collection deconstructs menswear archetypes, replacing traditional rigidity with fluid gestures and experimental textures. Symbols from this surreal cinematic masterpiece seep into the collection, creating a sense of dreamlike fluidity. Brushstrokes meld into gradients, outlines mimic the softness of calf hair, and innovative techniques transform fluid yarn into crystallized forms that play with dimensionality.
The collection’s structural language is an intricate balance of precision and abstraction. Triple-layered suiting reimagines conventional tailoring, while jersey fabrics twist into flowing, deconstructed shapes. Diffused, cell-like motifs emerge in amorphous prints, and accessories such as the sea urchin-inspired bag, crafted in wadded mélange, echo natural symmetry with stud-like impressions. A reinterpretation of shearling tailoring further showcases the collection’s textural experimentation.
One of the standout innovations this season is a bespoke gradient wool developed in collaboration with Italian mill Manteco. This fabric achieves fluid tonal transitions, fashioned with precision to minimize waste. By orienting grainlines and placing unconventional seams, the gradient flows across garments, creating the illusion of movement. Each piece reflects an intricate balance of creativity and material efficiency, exemplifying _J.L-A.L_ ’s commitment to thoughtful craftsmanship.
Material experimentation remains central to the collection’s philosophy. Wool and alpaca blends are treated with a fine polyester coating, yielding paper-like rigidity, while repeated pressings form crystallized structures that appear both delicate and architectural. This process underscores the brand’s ability to manipulate textiles, offering a tactile narrative of innovation and ingenuity.
Collaborative ventures further enrich the collection. Designer Victoria Ohanyan contributed handmade beaded accessories, including belts, bag straps, and waist embellishments, adding a sculptural dimension to the designs. Meanwhile, the brand’s ongoing partnerships with Goldwin and HOKA continue to push the boundaries of functional fashion. Goldwin’s capsule collection incorporates Spiber’s Brewed Protein fiber and Synflux’s AI-driven pattern technologies, redefining material efficiency and sustainability through cutting-edge processes.
Presented in Paris, the collection unfolds within a reflective gallery space, a fitting stage for _J.L-A.L_ ’s conceptual exploration of the real and surreal. Silhouettes refract and shift under changing light, blurring the line between object and mirage. This technical and philosophical showcase reveals a wardrobe of experimental abstraction, evolving the brand’s design language into new territories.
Manufactured and distributed globally through Slam Jam, the collection invites wearers to step into a world of sartorial experimentation, where garments are not only clothing but provocative statements of design innovation.
Production – Octo Operations
Director & Photographer – Torren Simz
Set Design – Thomas Conant
Sound – Islnd
