Kenzo presented its Fall Winter 2025 Men’s Collection at the Palais de Chaillot on January 24, 2025, under the artistic direction of Nigo. Taking inspiration from the Maison’s Fall Winter 1998 Train Show, Nigo crafted a futuristic narrative of cultural exchange, reflecting a journey from Tokyo to Paris. Through this high-speed exploration, the collection merged travel-inspired elements with archival references, celebrating the energy of movement and the creative cross-pollination of cultures.
The silhouettes were rooted in English tailoring but filtered through Nigo’s contemporary vision. Classic suit compositions, reinterpreted with Japanese construction, included jackets spliced with kimono-style waistcoats. Boxy utility jackets in vibrant winter mohair and denim salopettes deconstructed into formalwear illustrated the interaction of texture and formality. Pastel tones softened traditionally rugged workwear, while intricate knitwear techniques affirmed the collection’s preppy, modern silhouette. Turned-up selvedge denim added subtle detail to the collection’s clean lines and structured shapes.
The collection featured motifs inspired by train journeys, from speed-blurred stripes to intricate train-window scenes of Paris and Japan. These motifs appeared in prints on shirts and T-shirts and in jacquards across knitwear and tailoring. Archival designs were reinterpreted through diagonal stripes and leaf patterns, while Kenzo Weave, a nod to traditional Japanese flooring patterns, was applied through shearling and quilted jacquard. A paisley motif adapted from the archives brought vibrant texture to khaki and bold-colored pieces.
Familiar graphics were given a fresh perspective. Japanese pachinko slot machines of Nigo’s childhood informed the elaborate knitwear designs, while train station matrixes were transformed into playful embellishments across a variety of garments. These patterns, combined with the tactile materials, painted a vivid picture of movement and cultural dialogue.
American graffiti artist Futura 2000, a longtime collaborator of Nigo, contributed to the collection with his signature abstract style. Known for introducing abstraction to graffiti art in the 1970s, Futura 2000 brought his atom motif into conversation with Kenzo’s iconic boke flower emblem. This collaboration resulted in visually striking designs, including embroidered denim, bleached prints, and space yarns in knitwear that mimicked the spray-paint aesthetic of the artist’s work.
The collaboration extended to standout pieces such as a grizzly-effect shearling varsity jacket featuring a painted Kenzo logo by Futura 2000. These artistic elements added depth and individuality to the collection, reinforcing the shared creative vision between the artist and Nigo.
Accessories reflected the collection’s commuter theme, with leather bags designed to mimic brown paper, graph paper, and even lunch bags. These unique shapes, including bottle bags, baguette folders, and delivery totes, catered to on-the-go lifestyles while maintaining a playful aesthetic.
Footwear offered a range of styles that bridged traditional and subcultural influences. Round-toe creepers in shearling and suede, lightweight spectator shoes in two-tone leather, and reimagined Dome sneakers in mohair materials reflected the collection’s attention to detail and craftsmanship. Leather belts with boke-shaped eyelets and artificial flower boutonnières added finishing touches that balanced functionality with charm.
Production by Back of the House
Show music produced by Erik Friedlander
Content production by Kitten
Styling by Max Pearmain
Casting by Mischa Notcutt for 11 casting
Make up by Lucy Bridge and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by Virginie Moreira
Nails by Ama Quashie
