Setting up at 16 rue Vivienne, CELINE’s historic home, Michael Rider’s debut as Creative Director marks a turning point for the French house. Rider’s first collection arrives in a Paris that feels fundamentally changed, both in the world outside and within the walls of CELINE itself. As he puts it, “Coming back to CELINE, and to Paris, back to 16 rue Vivienne in a changed world, has been incredibly emotional for me. And a complete joy.”
This collection carries the weight of transition. Following the departure of Hedi Slimane, one of fashion’s most prominent and polarizing figures, CELINE is once again at the center of industry conversation. LVMH’s decision to hand the reins to Rider is a clear statement of trust, and the anticipation has been building for weeks. With 72 looks spanning both menswear and womenswear, the Spring 2026 collection is more than a debut; it’s a manifesto.
Rider’s vision is rooted in the core values of the house: “CELINE stands for quality, for timelessness and for style, ideals that are difficult to catch, and even harder to hold on to, to define, despite more and more talk about them out there. We worked on translating them into a way of dressing – that attitude, or attitudes, that we feel describe who we are and what we stand for.”
What emerges is a collection that leans into investment fashion: pieces designed to last, to be lived in, to become part of the wearer’s story. “I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on, that becomes a part of the wearer’s life, that may capture a moment in time but also speaks to years and years of gestures and occasions and change, of the past, the present and the future, of memories, of usefulness and of fantasy, of life really,” Rider reflects. This is a formula that makes or breaks brands, a similar one we have seen after the recession establishing Burberry by Christopher Bailey as one of the leading comeback names in the fashion.
Thus, in a season shaped by economic uncertainty and global instability, Rider’s CELINE is pragmatic yet poetic. There’s a clear emphasis on accessories, with new interpretations of CELINE’s signature pieces. The tailoring is sharp, the layering thoughtful, and the details, especially in the scarf prints, hint at a new CELINE motif in the making. The hourglass silhouette dominates, with oversized trousers and bold shoulders giving structure and presence.
Not all is entirely original; some elements, like the hardware bras, echo designs seen at other French houses, notably Chloé. Yet, in his first outing, Rider’s hand is visible, and the collection feels like the start of a new conversation rather than a definitive statement. The decision to show approaching the first day of couture week is a bold one. With Paris still catching its breath after menswear, CELINE’s return to the runway signals intent: this is a house ready to reclaim its place at the center of fashion’s dialogue.
Michael Rider’s 72 look debut is a study in balance, between past and future, utility and fantasy, restraint and exuberance. It’s a collection that invites us to look closely, to live with the clothes, and to watch as Rider’s vision for CELINE unfolds.
Discover all the looks in our gallery:
Celine Spring 2026 Runway Video:
