Institution Spring Summer 2026 Collection 04, titled “SU,” takes inspiration from the Proto-Turkic word for water, symbolizing spirituality and the soul. This collection engages in a contemporary conversation, exploring the shift from mirrors to cameras as tools through which we perceive ourselves and others.
The collection’s foundation is built upon traditional craftsmanship, particularly tailored jackets inspired by the Chepken, a woman’s vest part of a larger outfit. These garments showcase a plain, minimalistic design crafted from wool and bouclé, blending traditional elements with modern tailoring techniques. Drawing on the craft traditions of southeastern Azerbaijani communities, the collection highlights artisanal expertise and community involvement. Women from the Masallı and Lankaran districts of Azerbaijan contributed to the creation of the collection’s final pieces, primarily made from Typha Latifolia (rush), a plant traditionally used for making carpets, fences, baskets, and other household items.
The rush is harvested from the wetlands along the Caspian Sea, where local women dry and weave it into shapes envisioned by the designer, which are later transformed into wearable pieces. This collaboration marks a significant step forward in Institution’s expansion of community-driven craftsmanship networks, particularly in the Caucasus region. The hand-weaving techniques used in the collection are inspired by Azerbaijani carpet-making traditions in Georgia, specifically from the Borchaly region. However, instead of wool, the pieces are crafted from cotton shoelaces, adding a unique twist to the traditional techniques. As the craft faces the threat of decline, the designer aims to preserve this knowledge by involving local women’s communities and ensuring the transfer of skills across generations.
The collection features monochrome, hand-knotted, and fringed items, mixed with hand-knitted pieces and alternating knotting styles typical of Caucasian carpets. A small Azerbaijani community in Georgia hand-knitted some of the garments, further emphasizing the collection’s focus on craftsmanship and community involvement. One notable piece in the collection is a sculpted, hand-woven item made from sustainable denim cloth. This piece is part of the S|STYLE project, powered by the Kering Material Innovation Lab, which promotes sustainable materials in fashion.
During the runway show, the focus shifts from the model to the audience through a unique interaction. Insta360 action cameras are used to record the audience as the model passes by, flipping the traditional dynamic of observer and observed. In this moment, the viewer becomes the subject, and the gaze of society is reversed.
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The brand’s commitment to sustainability is reinforced by its collaboration with eBay Endless Runway, a partnership that brings circular and pre-loved fashion to the runway. This collaboration strengthens Institution’s dedication to promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
