OVERCOAT in 2015, Oomaru Ryuhei has pushed the boundaries of fashion, influenced by the mentorship of Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons. This has infused his work with a spirit of defiance and a philosophy that challenges conventional norms. The latest Fall Winter 2024 collection is no exception, offering an exploration of form inspired by the simplicity of an apple peel, which Oomaru transforms into designs. Through his ability to find new shapes and forms in everyday life, Oomaru has crafted a collection that speaks about the potential of simplicity in design.
The collection is presented in two distinct segments: art pieces and a curated selection of ready-to-wear looks. The art pieces boldly challenge traditional fashion norms, blending refined elegance with rugged, gritty textures. This deliberate defiance of traditional, monochromatic standards showcases Oomaru’s view of fashion as an experiential art form. By juxtaposing sleek designs against harsh elements and defying conventional shape and silhouette expectations, the collection invites a new appreciation for the unconventional beauty in its structures, such as deformed tubes, cubes, and dolman sleeves.
The RTW collection builds on the foundation laid by the art pieces, combining OVERCOAT’s signature elements with an array of textures and hues. This includes abstract bouclé, overdyed prints, artificial high-gloss nylon, tactile cow leather, digital knits, and smooth wool sweaters in colors like camel, green, lemon, and eventide blue. A standout feature is the adaptable pleated shoulder detail, which adjusts to the wearer’s shoulder width and slope. Another part of the collection was the collaboration with artist Peter Miles through the “WE BUY GOLD” project.
See all the looks from the collection in the Gallery below:
