A-COLD-WALL* has unveiled its SS 2025 collection titled “Pink Noise,” marking the beginning of a new era for the brand. Drawing inspiration from Britain’s rich sonic culture, particularly the phenomenon of illicit radio broadcasting, the collection explores themes of ephemerality, functionality and anonymity. Through research into the spatial and subcultural dimensions of these broadcasts, A-COLD-WALL* has crafted a line that embodies the transient yet impactful nature of underground radio.
The collection features a variety of silhouettes, from radical proportions achieved through cinching and ruching to more classical, utilitarian shapes. Angular seams subtly echo the form of antennas, blending into the garments while adding a unique structural element. The color palette is expanded with the introduction of citronelle yellow, and the familiar weathering technique is prominently displayed on reconstructed baseball caps, distressed to the brink of disintegration.
The collection is brought to life by the A-COLD-WALL* studio team, alongside a network of creative partners. A runway film directed by Rory Wood and a lookbook shot by Luca Grottoli feature notable figures such as musicians Goldie, Jason Williamson, and Jawnino, filmmaker Seb Tabe, and models Aweng Chuol, Laura Rylands, Danni Harris, and Manyuon Deng. The setting for these visuals is the Deptford Storehouse, a historic newspaper depot in South London, with casting by Najia Li Saad and styling by Anna Pesonen.
An immersive installation at Maiocchi 10 in Milan on June 14-15 introduced the collection to the public. Conceptualized by artist Ken-Tonio Yamamoto, the installation transforms the ACW* SS25 collection into a ceremonial space, featuring moving portraits of the collaborators and voice notes reflecting on the sounds of the city. The installation, along with the film, is scored by musician Rainy Miller, enhancing the multisensory experience of the collection.
A standout element of the collection is a collaborative capsule with Japanese biotech company Spiber. This partnership brings forth outerwear, cargo pants, a hooded dress, and a bag made with Spiber’s Brewed Protein™, a material created through microbial fermentation technology. This innovative approach underscores A-COLD-WALL*’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of material science and sustainable fashion through avant-garde collaborations.
In addition to the collaborative capsule, the collection includes other experimental pieces made from fabrics produced by specialist Italian mills. Highlights include an oversized M65 field jacket in aluminium-treated ripstop, a gilet from crinkled memory fabric, and a protective jacket and trousers crafted from Italian calf leather. A standout piece is the ankle-length poncho in translucent coated-popeline, offering rain protection. Each garment embodies a conceptual idea and extends the season’s ready-to-wear mainline.
“Pink Noise” is a celebration of transmission and reception, highlighting the power of subcultural networks and the potential of collaborative creative production. Through this collection, A-COLD-WALL* continues to redefine the boundaries of contemporary fashion, merging cutting-edge design with cultural commentary.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
love this! Samuel Ross is doing an amazing job with A Cold Wall!