Mame Kurogouchi’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, aptly named “Katachi” (meaning form), delves into the fundamental element of shape, weaving together influences from nature, culture, and craftsmanship. Designer Maiko Kurogouchi takes inspiration from the world around her, exploring the diverse and often overlooked forms found in everyday objects, reinterpreting them through her distinct fashion lens. This season, she brings the fluidity of nature and the structural beauty of traditional Japanese design into harmony, creating garments that speak to the elegance of form in daily life.
SPRING SUMMER 2025
The idea of “Katachi” was born from Kurogouchi’s personal journey in pottery, where she experienced the tactile challenges of shaping clay. This interest deepened her exploration into traditional Japanese shapes, as described in the book Nihon no Katachi (Shapes in Japan), which highlights the spiritual and aesthetic connections between materials and form. Kurogouchi’s creative process involved photographing objects like pebbles, seashells, ceramics, and artifacts, blacking out their images to focus solely on their silhouettes. Through this, she erases the hierarchy between functional items and art, allowing these forms to speak a universal language of shape.
This exploration of form manifests in the collection’s fluid curves and asymmetrical designs. Boat-neck dresses and tops, crafted from luxurious cotton, evoke the natural draping of fabric as it interacts with the body. The asymmetry in these pieces gives a casual elegance to everyday wear, and as the body moves within them, new dimensions and shapes are formed, reminding us that our own bodies are nature’s creation, constantly interacting with the garments we wear.
Kurogouchi’s fascination with internal structure is evident in the architectural details of the collection. Traditional Japanese lanterns inspire the graphic knit patterns, their radiating pleats reflected in voluminous sleeves, knit dresses, and intricately detailed shirts. The structural beauty of these lanterns is reimagined in a modern context, blending tradition with innovation.
Nature’s influence continues with fabrics inspired by the delicate craftsmanship of Ryukyu Raden (mother-of-pearl inlay). The shimmering aurora threads in jacquard fabrics create soft, cocoon-like curves in jackets, dresses, and skirts, evoking the iridescent quality of noctilucent shells. The interplay of light and shadow on these garments enhances their depth, imbuing the collection with a subtle yet profound beauty.
While the collection is grounded in a monochromatic palette that emphasizes the purity of form, bursts of bright green inspired by Okinawa’s lush landscapes breathe life into off-shoulder dresses and recycled polyester jersey pieces, injecting a sense of freshness into the designs.
Accessories play a key role in complementing the collection’s theme of form. Bags with cord embroidery mimic the rounded shapes of stones, while glass jewelry, reminiscent of ice melting in the sunlight, adds a playful yet sophisticated touch. Collaboration hats with Japanese brand ENTWURFEIN offer smooth curves and asymmetrical silhouettes, extending the theme of organic form into every aspect of the collection.
In Katachi, Kurogouchi captures the fluid connection between body and fabric, nature and culture, offering a collection that celebrates the beauty of form in its many interpretations. Each piece is a reflection of her deep appreciation for the shapes around us, transforming everyday life into a living work of art.
true definition of japanese design, i have 5-6 of their pieces they are timeless!