QASIMI presents Undercurrent for Spring Summer 2027, a collection built around labor, process and repetition. Shown in Milan, the season studies how clothing can carry traces of its own making. Garments record gesture, time and transformation through pleats, exposed threads, displaced seams and visible construction.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Relaxed tailoring, modular construction and material manipulation guide the collection. Deep pleats give shirts and outerwear structure. Sheer layers expose the architecture beneath each garment. Threads extend past hems, seams shift from their expected place, and construction details remain visible.
Undercurrent continues the house’s wardrobe of relaxed tailoring, seasonless layering and wearable workwear. Manual dyes stain relaxed twill tailoring, leaving marks from the treatment across the surface. Classic denim appears in pleated and barrel leg silhouettes. The house returns to its signature check in lightweight modal. Knitwear shapes draw from Khalid Al Qasimi’s earlier work and enter the season with a current reading.
A poplin shirt creates the effect of a sweater over a shirt without using separate layers. Trousers carry wrap panels at the hip. Rose colored shirts feature off center collars and displaced seams. Olive and agave green silhouettes introduce controlled volume and follow the body in motion.
The palette stays close to QASIMI’s familiar earth tones. Brown, mocha and camel bring warmth to the collection. Agave green adds a sharper note, supported by olive, rose dawn and white.
Undercurrent begins a two season study of Hassan Sharif, one of the Gulf’s most influential contemporary artists and a foundational figure in conceptual art in the UAE. QASIMI worked with Sharif’s estate on the project, translating his interest in process, accumulation and manual intervention into clothing.
Sharif used industrial and everyday materials, then transformed them through repeated manual actions. He tied, interlaced, bound and folded objects into dense sculptural forms, questioning value, labor and permanence. QASIMI avoids direct copies of specific artworks and focuses on the principles behind his practice. Repetition turns into construction. Accumulation turns into layering. Gesture turns into form.
These ideas run through the garments. Shirts gain shape through deep pleating. Modular panels shift with the movement of the body. Sheer panels wrap around the torso and reveal layers of construction underneath. Crochet belts sit low on the hips, with loose threads brushing the legs. One tailoring look turns fully inside out, exposing seams and internal construction lines.
The collection also looks to the Gulf before oil extraction changed the region’s economy. References to pearl diving and fishing appear through sheer shirts and trousers printed with wave like textures, reflective surfaces that catch light like water, and open crochet structures that recall fishing nets.
A representative of Sharif’s estate described Hassan’s work as rooted in process, material and time, and welcomed QASIMI’s homage as a way to open conversations around his work in new contexts. Hoor Al Qasimi also described Undercurrent as a collection about the marks left by making, where repetition builds meaning over time.
