Chemena Kamali turns inward for Chloé Summer 2027, allowing personal fixations with the Maison to guide a collection titled Obsession. The designer approaches the season through instinct and emotion, returning to archival references, silhouettes and techniques that have shaped her understanding of Chloé. Rather than searching for a single defining idea, Kamali follows the details she finds herself repeatedly drawn to.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Broderie anglaise provides one of the collection’s main starting points. Kamali looked to Chloé’s early “robes de jeunes filles,” which frequently used the technique, and studied 19th-century archival threadwork. The collection translates those references across materials with very different weights, ranging from delicate organza to crisp, substantial cotton.
Three-dimensional floral embroidery draws from the 1960s and another period of the Maison’s prêt-à-porter. Kamali uses the technique to create depth and texture while maintaining the youthful character she associates with Chloé. Flowers rise from the surfaces of garments, adding volume and detail without defining the entire silhouette.
Necklines establish many of the collection’s shapes. Heart, bateau, square and V-shaped constructions act as anchors from which the rest of each silhouette develops. Some connect directly to earlier Chloé designs, while others come from forms Kamali has long favored in her own work.
The designer looks to 1970s fishermen’s coats, capes and sou’wester hats, then introduces transparent vinyl in smoky tones inspired by 1950s rainwear. The material creates a graphic layer over the shapes beneath it and gives familiar outerwear forms a sharper outline.
Tailoring reaches back to the 1972 “Noel” suit, a design Kamali describes as a personal fixation. Its scalloped-edge tuxedo becomes a reference for the collection’s exploration of women in menswear. The idea connects structured suiting with the feminine codes that have long informed Chloé.
Lingerie enters the collection through another personal interest. Kamali cuts lace away from fragile pieces and transforms the remaining structures into romantic harnesses. The resulting forms sit lightly against the body, using lingerie construction as a graphic element within the looks.
Across Obsession, Kamali draws on personal connections to Chloé’s archive, revisiting broderie anglaise, floral embroidery, rainwear, tailoring and lingerie through her own recurring interests. The collection brings those references together through texture, transparency, defined necklines and contrasts between feminine dress and menswear, shaping Summer 2027 around the ideas and forms she continues to return to at the Maison.
