Being significant for the creations of renowned Austrian fashion designer Rebekka Ruétz is her preference for flamboyant, lively and powerful looks. The vivid mix and match of different fabrics is incredibly interesting to observe and certainly stands out. It is exactly this energy that makes her creations the perfect addition for the modern amazons’ wardrobe that dares to wear strong, eye- catching looks. Since 2011, she shows her collection twice a year during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
In her earlier years as a designer, Rebekka Ruétz finished her studies as Best-Graduate and Cognos Relevance Award Winner at AMD Munich in 2008. Moreover she gained inspiration and experience during her studies in India. She then worked for PETER PILOTTO. After she founded her label in 2009, she won the Best Newcomer Award by STEFFL. As you can imagine, we are following her work for a very long time and are always surprised anew. This season, she presented her new collection in the form of a video presentation. As most of us stay at home because of the pandemic, the video presentation certainly hits the zeitgeist.
Her new annual collection contains the Spring/ Summer 2021 collection “placID” and the Autumn/ Winter collection 21/22 “reSET”. Both lines take their inspirations from the challenges, changes and events of the past months. However new challenges also lead to new chances: because of the pandemic, we all need to go new ways and try to slow down. These times also force us to see everything from a distant angle. In addition to that, we now have the possibility to rearrange things, to reprioritize and even to create a better version of ourselves.
One of the main inspirations of this compelling collection is the beauty of the Zillertal and its nature. Therefore the mood of this annual line is very down to earth and calming. If you observe the creations of this range clearly, you will recognize images of magnificent forests and picturesque dandelions. Graceful mountain lakes and playful mushroom spores beautify the silhouettes. Impressive mountain slopes meet immortal stone lichens. Furthermore upcycled orientation tarpaulins from the Zillertal are used. They are flattered by colored jeans and unique mesh.
The quiet colour choice underlines the message of this collection: it is ranging from moss green, eggshell white, forest gray and night black to burnt violet, honest blue and earthy khaki. All these rather restrained hues can be interpreted as an homage to appreciate the beauty nature has to offer and to care more about it. Additionally, vibrant orange and lush green build strong accents that stay in mind.
The cuts are focused on unstructured shapes with A, X and H silhouettes. Due to these shapes, these pieces allow easy movements and appear in a highly nonchalantly way. Some clothes are provided with huge pockets consisting of special jeans. Oversized shirts and summer coats cover shorter pieces or wide pants.
Contrary impressions play a major role: mountain images captivate us with their sublime and majestic approach. At the same time they appear formidably distant, like the traces in the snow as a sign of human existence. A lonely road reaches through the forest, it appears like a path into a new world. However it is contrasted by the antagonism of snowfall at night and thus the contrast of the beauty of the world and the roughness is clearly visible. Fake fur is applied as a symbol of the protection of animal life and organic denim as an expression of the human power to change natural resources.
The A, X and H silhouettes complement the pieces of the warmer season with the beauty of autumn and winter. Rebekka Ruétz‘ Annual Collection 21/22 “placID reSET” focuses on the beauty of nature and eases our everyday life. Furthermore the designer evokes its audience to learn from the pandemic, to slow down and to appreciate the beauty our planet has to offer.
Images courtesy of ©Rebekka Ruétz, Photography by Jenny Haimerl
Review by Sussan Zeck for DSCENE Magazine.