British fashion designer PAUL SMITH presented the Spring Summer 2023 Menswear Collection, with a show held on June 24th, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week. For this season, Smith was nspired by a day spent gallery hopping around London on the hottest day of the year. The collection revisits the 1980s art scene to offer a refined take on classic menswear silhouettes. The looks introduce an effortless retelling of traditional formal codes, reinterpreting classic 1980s tailoring and shirting with exaggerated proportions and a soft, tonal colour palette that spans shades of lavender, earthy brown, grey, pistachio, powder blue, cobalt, clay and coral.
Prints, meanwhile, refer to 1980s artistic techniques and media. For example, the ‘Hot Summer’ floral is stencilled and airbrushed for a hazy finish is seen across shirting and outerwear, including a sweeping trench coat. Similarly, the ‘Glow Polka’ print takes its cue from contemporary light installations and features across shirting and neon knitwear. A painterly finish is another key theme in this area, with the ‘Untitled’ stripe print, which features on a relaxed half-DB suit as well as a trench, created using an innovative combination of hand-painting, spray painting and screen-printing. – from Paul Smith