The SS25 “The Decade Line” collection by CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY marks a milestone, reflecting on themes and temporalities that shape our universe. Departing from a narrative-driven approach, this collection explores ‘queer time,’ emphasizing how queerness influences not only gender and sexuality but also our perceptions of time and our relationships with the past, present, and future. The design process considers how clock-time shapes social life and intertwines with expectations and notions of respectability. This exploration is evident in the juxtaposition of nightwear and undergarments with formality and outerwear, creating a blend that challenges traditional codes of labor and leisure. The collection uses drape and deconstruction to evoke a sense of becoming and undoing, capturing the gradual unraveling of a look over the course of a day, complemented by a post-punk aesthetic of ringed eyes and tousled hair.
The SS25 collection also coincides with LOVERBOY’s return to London and the celebration of its first decade, hosted by Somerset House, home to the brand’s studio since 2016. This milestone is marked by the opening of LOVERBOY’s first exhibition, “The Lore of LOVERBOY,” which showcases the brand’s distinct British approach to style. The collection offers playful takes on traditionally masculine symbols from military and gamekeeping spheres, questioning their enduring status. Iconic elements from LOVERBOY’s history, such as the animal familiar takes on the iconic ears beanie and the Warholian banana motif in black velvet, are reimagined. The partnership with The World of MACH revisits SS18’s piercing arrows, now drawing inspiration from Saint Sebastian and a mobile gaming character, P.E.K.K.A. Dr. Cliff Lauson, Director of Exhibitions at Somerset House, praises Charles Jeffrey’s exceptional talent, highlighting the brand’s rebellious energy and fierce originality, which are celebrated in this dynamic collection and exhibition.
The manifesto for SS25 emphasizes the importance of research into customer behavior. By understanding how customers wear and buy LOVERBOY, the brand aims to propose a wardrobe that suits every stage of their day. This approach ensures that customers feel a connection with the brand, trusting its vision and growing to love its core products and items.
To achieve this vision, the entire team must be aligned and reflective of the current working systems. There is a need for a review and rework of processes to support this vision across all areas of the business. Collaboration and timely communication among team members are essential to pollinate ideas and ensure that the collection’s direction is consistently maintained. This collaborative effort is vital for achieving the collection’s goals.
A significant aspect of the SS25 collection is the concept of “Brand Magic.” This concept is about presenting an image that aligns with how customers perceive the brand. It involves creating a brand image that is both aspirational and accessible, ensuring that LOVERBOY remains a luxury brand that resonates with its audience.
The SS25 collection’s key themes include “Soft Soldiers,” which likely emphasizes a blend of strength and softness in design, and “REDUCE. Refine. RE-CONNECT,” focusing on sustainability and meaningful connections. Other themes such as “Benjamin,” “Hector/James,” “Sam,” and “Charles” suggest personalized narratives or inspirations behind different segments of the collection. These themes collectively create a diverse yet cohesive range of offerings.
One of the standout themes is “Roman Drapes,” which draws inspiration from Greek sculpture, utilizing materials like leather and faux leather to create a sculptural effect. This theme emphasizes the artistic and historical influences behind the collection, adding depth and a sense of timelessness to the designs. The use of such materials also suggests a focus on texture and form, which are crucial elements in creating visually striking pieces. Take a closer look at the collection in the Gallery below:
