FENDI enters its 100th year with a collection that bridges past and present, shaped by Silvia Venturini Fendi’s vision. Instead of looking solely to the archives, she draws on personal memories, real and imagined, to explore what FENDI was and what it means today. Set against the refined atmosphere of the new Spazio FENDI in Milan, the Fall Winter 2025.26 show reflects the evolution of a house founded in 1925 by Edoardo and Adele Fendi.
The collection revisits the elegance of the past while embracing modernity. A flared coat, cinched with a gold belt, sets the tone with sharp tailoring and structured shapes. Shearlings take on the look of fox, mink, and sable through intricate techniques like honeycomb, intarsia, and Gheronato patchwork. The hourglass shape, a nod to infinity, appears in satin skirts, sculpted jackets, and voluminous sleeves. Rich textures define the collection, from marbled plissé dresses to chevron patchwork skirts in eel and lamb leather. Menswear-inspired coats add depth with raw edges and hidden details, while colors transition from deep greens and blues to warm terracotta, cinnamon, and scarlet, evoking the light of Rome at dusk.
FENDI’s tailoring reaches new heights with bracelet-sleeve blazers, precise wool coats, and oversized trench coats in lambskin and plissé taffeta. For both men and women, the shearling stole transforms into a structured collar over jewel-tone cardigans, fluid dresses, or sheer blouses. The craftsmanship of the house shines in reversible deerskin Selleria coats and geometric intarsia outerwear. Eveningwear plays with matte and shine, layering satin, duchesse, and crystal embroidery over soft bouclé. Lace adds contrast, appearing in cashmere twinsets and pinstripe shirts, while tulle and sequins frame gowns in delicate textures that move effortlessly.
Accessories continue the house’s tradition of innovation. The FENDI Giano, a structured moon-shaped purse, shifts from clutch to shoulder bag with its signature click-clack closure. The iconic FENDI Spy Bag, first introduced in 2005, returns with a deconstructed silhouette and shearling handle. The Baguette and Peekaboo bags remain central, reimagined in shearling intarsia, sequins, and fluted suede. A standout Baguette appears in leopard watersnake or mirrored embroidery. For men, the FENDI Lui duffel debuts alongside a supple hobo bag in Cuoio Romano, accented with metal FF hardware. Throughout the collection, FENDI Maxi Charm characters, crafted from upcycled fabrics, highlight a commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability.
Footwear pushes the boundaries of design. Trompe l’oeil boots and peep-toe slippers feature sculpted heels with flashes of metal, while desert boots in shearling and lambskin bring a relaxed yet polished edge. Jewelry, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, plays with texture, from snake chain collars to chandelier earrings and sterling silver pendants. The collection’s invitation takes the form of an accordion-folded photo album, bound in Selleria-stitched Cuoio Romano. Featuring images from 1964 to 1977, it offers a glimpse into the house’s early years, including Karl Lagerfeld’s first collection in 1966 and childhood portraits of Silvia Venturini Fendi.
The show itself opens in a symbolic gesture. Dardo and Tazio, the twin sons of Delfina Delettrez Fendi, step forward to reveal the runway, wearing equestrian-inspired looks designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1967 for a young Silvia Venturini Fendi. The soundtrack, curated by Michel Gaubert, sets the mood with a mix of Barry White, Ornella Vanoni, Mina, Patty Pravo, and Franco Battiato, voices that have shaped Italian culture.
