Maitrepierre unveiled its Spring Summer 2026 collection, En plein cœur, inside the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The presentation entered into dialogue with Paul Poiret, Le mode est une fête, an exhibition devoted to one of the most influential designers of the early twentieth century. By situating the collection within this context, Alphonse Maitrepierre reconnected with the innovations of Poiret while projecting them into a futuristic wardrobe.
The show opened with a silhouette referencing an illustration by Iribe for Poiret, a discovery that left a lasting impression on Maitrepierre. Echoing Poiret’s radical break from the strict dress codes of his time, the designer proposed volumes that expanded outward with theatrical ease. Color blocked contrasts, trompe-l’œil constructions, and illusions of plunging lines defined the season’s shapes. Laser-cut faux feathers and futuristic embroidery also heightened the effect. Poiret’s influence appeared again in fluid trousers, draped coats, and kimonos, while stripes and polka dots evoked his “dot and line” signature. Throughout the lineup, hybrid creatures seemed to emerge in transition, their forms layered with lace, bows, and eyewear conceived with VISAGES through 3D printing.
Maitrepierre extended its collaboration with Parisian shoemaker CAREL, revealing the third capsule together. Eight sandal models, manufactured in Italy with bio-sourced materials, revisited the house’s 1952 classic with a mix of matte and glossy textures. Each design carried whimsical motifs drawn from fables, where birds and small animals appeared to spring from storybooks and scatter across the stage.
Sustainability informed every aspect of the collection’s construction. As ambassador of NONA Source, the house worked exclusively with deadstock, certified, or reclaimed fabrics, ensuring each garment supported neutral-impact goals. The atelier also collaborated with Teinturess de France by Serge H to expand technical possibilities. Treatments ranged from advanced primers to layered embroidery, as well as laser-cutting and ozone processes, giving fabrics unusual depth and material resonance.
The partnership with KIKO MILANO, established in 2021, returned for this season. Makeup by Ruby Mazuel introduced translucent lips and gentle pastel details, which drew subtle focus to the eyes. Carole Douard designed hairstyles that extended the theme of lightness, using SHU UEMURA Art of Hair products to create silky textures that moved with sculptural precision.
At its core, En plein cœur reflected a shared fascination between Poiret and Maitrepierre for imaginative storytelling. Their creations transform figures into dreamlike characters who invite audiences into parallel utopias. By staging this collection as a dialogue with Poiret, Maitrepierre reaffirmed fashion’s ability to hold both history and fantasy. The result resonated as a vivid ode to joy, reverie, and collective escape.
