For Fall Winter 2026, DES_PHEMMES constructs a dialogue between two opposing figures: Helmut Lang and Luisa Casati. Lang represents radical minimalism grounded in subtraction and formal rigor. Casati represents eccentricity, luxury, and deliberate self-stylization. The collection develops within the tension between these references.
FALL WINTER 2026
Total white and total black looks remove chromatic distraction and direct attention toward construction, proportion, and surface. White appears in multiple tones, ranging from milky shades to optical brightness. Material pairings generate controlled variation within these monochrome looks. Layers and contrasts organize the garments and emphasize vertical silhouettes defined through precise lines.
Tailoring anchors the collection. Single-breasted jackets feature rounded shoulders and appear in white or black crocodile. These jackets are paired with trousers defined by geometric construction and clean volumes. The monochrome palette gives these garments visual strength. Within these compact surfaces, accents of light appear through combinations such as silver crocodile set against white poplin.
Crocodile leather presents a solid and three-dimensional surface. Eco-python in saturated orange and deep green introduces a sensual register that alters the visual rhythm of the garments. DES_PHEMMES develops silhouettes inspired by workwear. Cropped jackets, rounded volumes, and functional constructions establish the base structure. The shirt becomes a key element, developed in poplin, striped cotton, and organza, with plastrons that reinforce its graphic structure.
Ultra-short marabou mini-dresses appear in dense black layers that intensify surface texture. Collars incorporate faux embroidered chokers inspired by jewels associated with Luisa Casati. Black crystals or vivid orange stones are integrated directly into the garments. A long skirt constructed entirely from feathers pushes this concept further. The garment begins with compact density at the waist and gradually lightens toward the hem. Ostrich and marabou feathers generate movement and vibration across the surface. A gradient shifting from orange to black strengthens the dramatic volume of the silhouette.
A mid-length skirt composed of black feather flowers recalls headpieces associated with Casati. This skirt is paired with an embroidered black-and-white tie-dye T-shirt. Couture elements appear on long tees and sweatshirts and establish a dialogue between ornament and daily clothing. Opulent surfaces interact with casual forms and translate decorative intensity into a contemporary register.
Another defining garment appears as a slip dress composed of metal chains and Swarovski crystals. The design references Casati’s “fountain” costume. The dress reduces luminous ornament to a direct linear structure and maintains strict discipline within its form. The collection functions through a system of oppositions. Minimalism and formal masculinity interact with eccentricity and luxury.
DES_PHEMMES extends this concept into the exhibition The Architecture of Looking. Installed within the Circolo Filologico Milanese, the project transforms the space into an immersive environment dedicated to observation. Cameras, monitors, and reflective surfaces multiply perspectives and convert the venue into a device for looking.
