A real revival may be said to have taken place at the Italian fashion label ETRO with the Spring Summer 2024 runway collection that was showcased today under the creative leadership of Marco De Vincenzo. What inspiring the collection, was a book gathering anonymous renditions of allegories from Cesare Ripa’s iconology. This book was discovered by De Vincenzo in his birthplace of Messina, where he was born and raised. These allegorical pictures have their roots in the past, yet they act as a gateway to the here and now and to the very heart of what constitutes fashion.
The idea of allegory is not something that can only be found in remnants from bygone eras in our day and age, when our visual language is dominated by memes, GIFs, and TikToks. Images are used in current communication techniques to express alternate meanings or to communicate thoughts in a manner that does not require the use of words, similar to how allegories use figuration to explain abstract ideas. In a similar vein, the process of putting together an outfit in and of itself may be seen as a metaphorical act, endowing image-making with the capacity to communicate.
The Spring Summer 2024 collection that ETRO menswear is presenting is the result of this type of intuitive and non-scientific thought; it embodies both ease and sacrality. A compelling mix-and-match impression is created when the clothes have flowing curves that gently skim the body and rhythmic patterns that swarm throughout the clothing. The collection features a variety of garments, such as roomy blazers, shorts, jumpers, jumpsuits, and football shirts, all of which are combined impeccably with long cardigans and thick blankets that have been turned into coats.
Prints and jacquards with allegorical figures, such as “Augurio Buono,” “Bellezza,” “Eternità,” “Lussuria,” and “Tenacità,” decorate various garments throughout the range. These images may be found throughout the collection. The accessories, such as hyper-vulcanized wallabees, square-toed doll shoes, and intarsia bags, further underscore the interaction between solemnity and humor in the collection.
Etro menswear spring summer 2024 collection takes allegory both in symbolism and a metaphorical presentation of one topic under the garb of another, echoing the very nature of fashion itself, which is to pretend to be something that one is not. Not only does the Spring Summer 2024 collection by ETRO perfectly capture this character, but it also shines a spotlight on the creative direction of Marco De Vincenzo, who has effectively ushered in an exciting new chapter for the Italian fashion brand.
For the runway looks Marco and Etro team worked closely with Fashion Editor Vincent Pons, while in charge of the makeup was Luciano Chiarello with hair styling from Shiori Takahashi. The striking casting is work of casting director Piotr Chamier.
Models walking the Etro Menswear Spring Summer 2024 show – Ayomide Onasanya, Camp Schill, Craig Shimirimana, Dae Kim, Daniel Legzdins, Danilo Markovic, Elias de Poot, Fahui Zhuang, Filip Roseen, Guo Jike, Han Ji, Ilias Loopmans, Joan Maria, Julien Saunier, Jum Kuochnin, Jura Kozenecs, Kirill Romanenko, Ko Eun Woo, Kristaps Legzdins, Leo Cremer, Lucas Freymann, Lucas T, Luke Clod, Maluit Tony, Mouhamed Fall, Nicola Macchi, Nyange Dikla, Oscar Fishman, Raffaele Giolli, Saul Symon, Walid Fiher, Willie Fidelis, Yuto Ebihara
Words by DSCENE Editor Zarko Davinic
