Rabanne takes Resort 2026 in a new direction by filtering references through a freer, sharper lens. Julien Dossena draws on recognisable codes, then twists them. The result avoids excess but keeps the glamour close. Françoise Hardy’s influence runs through the collection, not as imitation but as an attitude.
The concept of “Contain-and-Release,” first introduced on the runway, carries over into two connected lines this season. Dossena uses that idea to build around contrast, pulling from various decades and moods. He doesn’t separate glamour from grunge, instead he lets both co-exist. Materials take the lead in every look, styled with a light hand and a sense of play.
For the evening-focused pieces, the references stretch across timelines. ’70s silhouettes meet the surface detail of the ’30s and the edge of the ’90s. A tuxedo in sequins shows up on a retro-futurist shag rug, shedding all signs of restraint. Chain mail, one of Rabanne’s signature techniques, appears in deep underwater blue, draped to ripple at the hips. Elsewhere, beadwork flares across mousseline like fireworks frozen mid-burst.
Outerwear plays with exaggeration and intent. A faux fur coat cuts a maxi silhouette with chevron-like patchwork and sweeping tails. A cardigan adds crystal strass at the edges, while a lean knit coat comes topped with a faux fur collar.
Other looks chase versatility without sacrificing precision. One outfit pairs a T-shirt with a low-slung burgundy skirt, another features a tank dress in smoky amber. Both rely on embroidery that reads as layered but reveals itself as stretch net covered in translucent discs. A black velvet jersey dress fits close to the body, finished with a single jewel that breaks its severity.
The Pre-collection opens up different paths. One side tilts structured: a Spencer jacket and trousers in soft yellow, a trench coat in glossy cappuccino-toned cotton cinched at the waist, and a T-shirt dress cut high to reveal a swirling tie-print. The other side leans relaxed, letting Hardy’s mood flow through zippered denim, crocodile-embossed leather blousons, and metal mesh mini-dresses worn in the daytime.
Patterns and textures shift constantly. Crisp poplin comes in preppy stripes and polished checks. Printed florals float with a barely-there quality, while metal mesh finds new rhythms throughout the lineup. Each element builds out the vocabulary that Rabanne has steadily shaped under Dossena.
The Ring bag returns with fresh iterations, including a new reversible bucket shape and a sharp flap design. Some bags feature oversized jewels, others use tassels and metallic links that look like party balloons frozen mid-air. Headwear runs from beanies to baseball caps, styled with equal parts function and irony.
