With a career spanning some of the most iconic names in Italian fashion, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Givenchy, and Ferragamo, Francesca Murri has quietly shaped the visual language of contemporary luxury. In 2023, she took the creative helm at Fiorucci, the legendary Italian label founded in 1967 by Elio Fiorucci. Tasked with revitalizing a brand known for its irreverence and pop spirit, Murri has already presented four collections that pulse with energy, color, and optimism.
Murri’s approach to Fiorucci is equal parts reverence and reinvention. Drawing deeply from the house’s rich archive, she reinterprets its iconic motifs—lips, angels, hearts, through a modern, playful lens. Her debut collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week in September 2023, set the tone for her tenure: a vibrant celebration of joy, freedom, and creativity, all rooted in Fiorucci’s signature DNA. The upcoming “Beatittudo” FW25 collection continued this narrative, inspired by the pursuit of pure happiness and characterized by a bold palette that injects fresh energy into the brand.
Under Francesca Murri, Fiorucci has become a platform for experimentation and dialogue, embracing collaborations with artists and emerging talents from across the creative spectrum. Her vision is about more than clothes; it’s about fostering a community and spreading positive messages that resonate in today’s world. By blending the brand’s storied past with the needs and languages of modern society, Murri is ensuring Fiorucci’s legacy remains as dynamic and relevant as ever.
Below, Francesca Murri discusses with DSCENE’s EIC Zarko Davinic her creative process, the role of Milan, the power of contrasts, and her hopes for Fiorucci’s future post her Spring Summer 2026 runway show in Milan.
What does it mean for you and Fiorucci to present your collections in Milano every season? How does the city’s unique energy influence your creative process? – Milano is where Elio Fiorucci created everything and started dreaming. It’s crucial for me to catch the spirit of the city and put it into a very international narrative. Influences come from everywhere in this place full of art.
Piazza Fiorucci is described as a space where everyday reality and fantasy meet. How did you translate this concept into both the collection and the show’s outdoor set design? – For the collection I asked Janina Zais to work body painting and hair spraying the models to inject the cartoonish approach into the products. I also take inspiration, for the red pois dress, from the Walt Disney character Minnie. For the set design I wanted to use banners that represented the sky and road signs on the ground with totally invented and fantastic elements such as the angel shooting the arrow.
The collection is full of contrasts, urban yet dreamlike, tender yet sensual. How do you approach balancing these opposing elements in your designs?
– I play very much with contrasts that are very crucial for the brand. When there’s something basic I apply something unexpected in a very Fiorucci way. And also the contrast played through the association between products and faces is very important. Rock characters with chic products and the opposites work very well.
Many pieces play with iconic Fiorucci motifs, like the lips, angels, and hearts, reimagined in playful, pop-art ways. What draws you to these symbols, and how do you keep them feeling fresh? – I always start by defining the key pillars of the brand and based on the seasonal concept I focus on the ones that help me to push forward the concept. This season the pop, cartoonish approach influenced my way to characterize them.
The slogan “Make Hearts Beat Again” featured on accessories and tees is both affectionate and provocative. What message are you hoping to send with this phrase? – In these uncertain moments in which everyone is a bit scared, I wanted send out a positive message by inviting people to make hearts beat again. An ode to love!
The collection uses a bold color palette and a mix of classic and innovative materials, from recycled PVC to Tyvek and glossy coatings. How do you decide which materials best express a new Fiorucci era? – We usually search for innovative materials and this is very important to express the feelings I am having at the beginning of the creative process. The unexpected approach to the usage of the materials can create uniqueness.
In a time when the fashion industry faces economic challenges and a looming recession, what do you believe will help brands like Fiorucci stay resilient and relevant? – It’s hard for the new projects to find a place in this tough and crowded market. I believe that Fiorucci can have a role in society by creating a platform for collaborations with emerging talents to generate very creative contents not only in fashion but also in art and music.
Looking ahead, how do you see Fiorucci’s identity evolving? What are your hopes for the brand, and for the industry? – I see the project more mature season after season. I hope the market will get better soon to have more opportunities to reach our targeted clients throughout pop ups and stores and give them more chances to experience the brand.
