The fashion week shakeup continues with the news from VIVIENNE WESTWOOD this morning announcing the label is to move it’s men’s show to London Collections: Men after years on the MILAN Fashion Week schedule. This news also comes with changes at Westwood’s business strategy and merger of the labels, where the womenswear line known as RED LABEL is now to merge with the men’s one known as the MAN label under the helm of Vivienne Westwood.
The decision follows the company’s wider strategy to simplify its line portfolio by unifying its mainline collections under a single brand umbrella. The decision to present the collection in early January is part of a shift that aims to present the collections ahead of the sales period giving buyers a clear vision for the season prior to the appointments in the showroom. There will be no womenswear show during September’s SS’17 London Fashion week, however, the collection will be presented via a look book and private appointments only. The brands diffusion line Anglomania, the Worlds End Collection, and all accessories lines will continue as part of the brands portfolio. – from VIVIENNE WESTWOOD.
The first showing of the now reformed label is to come with LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN in January. Nevertheless ‘Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’ collection is still to show during PARIS Fashion Week on October 1st. Label in question is to take a unique unisex form already close to the designer’s aesthetic.
“Reduce our company in size. And reduce it to its essentials. Selling only what we love. Our whole structure will be directed by quality. Buy less, choose well, make it last.Together Andreas and I head the design teams for all lines.’ -Vivienne Westwood
This may certainly come as a blow for MILAN FASHION WEEK and Camera Della Moda‘s unfortunately weakening men’s week schedule, however the Italian capital of fashion still holds the rain as the main menswear market. Not only due to the Italian fashion houses but also thanks to unparalleled craftsmanship and manufacturing possibilities in Italy. While British brands like Burbery have moved their menswear runway shows to London as well, their production is still heavily connected to the Made In Italy moment. At the same time, menswear buyers are still not ready to leave MFW in exchange for LCM. Baring in mind Milanese men’s week is a week after LCM there’s plenty of space for Westwood to showcase the collection to buyers flocking to the runway shows in Italy as well.
Still, with Brexit looming in the background it is still to see what the climate change brings to the British Fashion industry. Baring in mind with Burberry removing itself from the main spotlight of London Collections: Men, reshaping the fashion seasons concept and merging showing of men’s and women’s lines, Dame Vivienne Westwood is sure capable of taking the now empty spotlight on the scene of London’s menswear fashion week.
Photos by Maud Maillard for D’SCENE Publishing LTD.