#MFW: Dirk Bikkembergs Spring Summer 2018 Menswear Collection
“An authoritative and authentic take on the masculine aesthetic, according to the Dirk Bikkembergs codes. Creative director Lee Wood continues his own path of redefinition of the Bikkembergs identity, looking at the foundations while moving forward. Truth, manliness and assurance are his chosen bywords. A man, confident and grown up, is his chosen character.
Truthfulness and functionality this season are amplified to such intensity they almost get raw, looking at the imposing forms, honesty to materials and progressive utopias of Brutalist and Radical Architecture. Shapes are assertive and straightforward. Generous parkas, blousons, pragmatic trousers are the archetypal blueprints on which strong contrasts highlight details and constructions, suggesting rhythmic repetitions of modules. The effect is graphic, with a tangible physical vibe. On the same vein, rugby nods recall the noble physicality of an intense sport and the graphic allure of its uniform. Sharp cuts and decisive volumes give an hyper-masculine yet thoughtful twist to classics such as the double-breasted blazer, the crombie, the straight trousers. Boots and functional sandals anchor the silhouette to the ground, suggesting mobility and presence.“