With Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection, artistic director Daniel Roseberry questions the meaning of surrealism in this uncertain times when reality itself has been redefined. Named “An Age of Discipline”, the collection is a move towards the elemental – eliminating the usual elements used in haute couture, like big silhouettes, glorious poufs of fabric and huge volume. All we needed, I realized, was black, white, and gold. – said the designer.
HAUTE COUTURE
Throughout the 23 fittings for this collection, I realized that what felt exciting in this moment was something different, something restrained. Suddenly, color felt wrong to me. So, did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers (including me) use to communicate grandeur and craftsmanship—big silhouettes, glorious poufs of fabric, huge volume—felt hollow. Instead, I wanted to see if we could achieve the same kind of drama and otherworldliness without relying on those tropes. All we needed, I realized, was black, white, and gold—yet it wasn’t so much a return to basics as it was a move towards the elemental.
– Daniel Roseberry.
I design in order to make people feel something. When clothes and craft and hair and music and the wearer are in harmony together, when they are all trying to communicate something, we can be reminded why we love fashion—why I love fashion. It isn’t for the celebrities. It isn’t for the likes. It isn’t for the reviews. It’s because, when it’s done right, when it has something to tell us, it can help us feel the inarticulable. It’s because it still has the power to move us.
– Daniel Roseberry.
